A Saree is one of the oldest surviving and flawless garments, that has now become a fashion statement, but more importantly, a significant symbol of Indian feminity. There are various kinds of sarees available with different clothing materials and threads that are used to weave them. The history of Saree is rich and diverse and among all the different types, the Kanjeevaram Silk Sarees has an enthralling story of its own as it is considered one of the most marvellous sarees of the world.
What is the history and origin of Kanjeevaram Silk Saree?
The origin of the Kanjeevaram Silk Saree, also known as Kanchipuram Sarees can be traced back to Hindu Mythology. The Kaanjeevaram saree was made by the Kanchi weavers, who were descendants of Sage Markanda, the master weaver for the gods themselves.
The Kanchi weavers were mainly from two communities of Andhra Pradesh, namely the Devangas and Saligars, who migrated to the town of Kanchipuram.
The weavers used their skills to bore the images of the sculptures and figures that were found on the temples near the village.
Kanchipuram also known as the “City of Silk”, is home to almost 60,000 silk weavers and is famous for its handwoven silk sarees, mainly the Kanjeevaram Silk Saree. It is famous for its 129 magnificent temples with unique and distinct architecture that traces its roots back to the Dravidian heritage and these images are then incorporated into the design of the sari itself. It has been recognized as a geographical indication by the Government of India in 2005-2006.
At present, almost 5000 families earn their livelihood by the production of this sari. There are 25 silk and cotton yard industries and 60 dyeing units in the region.
What are Kanjeevaram Silk Sarees?
The Kaanjeevaram sarees are especially known for their traditional designs, dense fabric in variant colours, and rich gold borders.
It has been a tradition for nearly 150 years to exclusively hand-weave the saree from processed silk yarn and Zari which is a gold-coloured silver silk thread.
The silk thread before it is used is dipped in rice water and sun-dried.
The basic raw materials required for its making are:-
- Rice starch– Also known as ‘kanji; in the native language used to make the yarn stiff and also used on the saree before folding it.
- Mulberry Silk– Adds a certain glow and smooth finish to the saree. It is generally obtained from Karnataka and Tamil Nadu.
- Zari– Obtained from Gujarat.
- Dye Color
The length of the saree was decreased from the initial 9 yards to 6 yards, woven with Zari silk thread.
One speciality of this sari is that there are 60 holes in 1.2 inches of warp frame, in which there are 240 threads in warp and approx. 300 threads in wept.
The border colour and the design are very contrasting in respect to the body.
The weight of a Kanjeevaram Saree can be up to 2 kilos, as it is made of three silk threads joined together with a silver wire making the fabric extremely strong and durable.
It can be washed with water at home, due to its durability.
What are the weaving techniques of Kanjeevaram Silk Saree?
The weaving techniques followed to make the Kanjeevaram Saree are unique as well as intricate. The main technique is called Korvai, where the borders are interweaved with the body of a sari.
Another notable technique is that the aanchal and the borders are separately weaved and then joined together.
The pattern joining them is zigzag in shape and known as Pitni.
Due to the intricacy and complex techniques involved, it usually takes 10-15 days for a single saree to be weaved.
Zari, the thread that is used in the technique consists of 0.6% gold and 57% silver along with colour dye used in the aanchal and pallu are very different to the ones used in a common saree.
What are the features of Kanjeevaram Sarees?
In general, the price of a Kanjeevaram Silk Saree ranges from 5000 to 1,50,000, $38 to $1500 in US Dollars, the expensive ones being the ones that are made using puri Zari thread and silk.
These sarees are exported to various different countries like the US, Sri Lanka, Russia, and Italy since 1960.
Due to their glitter lustre and beauty, these sarees are very high in demand all over the globe.
The saree is always high in demand, and it also found a place in the hearts of many Bollywood beauties, primarily due to the majestic designs of temples, stripes, and floral butas on the saree.
Some of the motifs that can be found on the saree are of sun, moon, chariots, peacocks, parrots, swans, lions, coins, mangoes, leaves, a jasmine bud with a square or round frame.
The saree is usually worn during weddings, ceremony or any festival, and is extremely suitable for cold climatic conditions.
What are the different styles of Kanjeevaram Sarees?
Due to the increasing demand for these sarees, there have been a lot of modern trends now available in the market. The use of computers to create different designs is now on the rise. So, as per the modern trends and styles here are few different types of Kanjeevaram saree available:-
1)Plain Kanjeevaram Silk Saree with Golden Border – A contrasting woven border or a Zari border that has a base of a single colour and a zig-zag border adjoining the saree.
2) Kanjeevaram Saree with Temple Border – Between the pallu and body part, the triangular or zig-zag design of the temple border makes this saree really unique.
3) Modern Kanjeevaram Silk Saree – Colors different to the traditional ones are found here along with the latest mixed motifs and designs.
4)Traditional Kanjeevaram Silk Saree – Motifs of sun, moon, coins along with temple borders and traditional colours lights up this beauty.
Usually worn for pujas, ceremonies and perfect for bridal wear.
5)Floral weave Kanjeevaram Silk Sarees – A perfect proportion of zari pallu and the scintillating floral designs and motifs of floral or paisley is what makes this saree an absolute desire for everyone.
Along with this, there are some latest trends in Kanjeevaram sarees that include Aishwarya Kanjeevaram Saree, Ankusha, Aradhana, Anusha, Apeksha, Tamanna, Chandralekha amitha and Chinmai Kanjeevaram saree.
Despite seeing a lot of ups and downs, the Kanchipuram silk industry has managed to thrive and is now trying to make its presence felt in the international market by continuing to make one of the most gorgeous, loved, desired, and sought after sarees of the world, The “Kanjeevaram Silk Saree”.