The Kanchi cotton saree is one of the highlights of the city of Kancheepuram in Tamil Nadu. Kancheepuram is known as the textile unit of the south, as it has given to the world authentic and high-quality fabrics. These fabrics have raised the bar for Indian fabrics. The Kanchi cotton sarees are made entirely by hand and contain intricate and complex weaving. The Kanchi cotton sarees are one of the most fashionable attires in the state of Tamil Nadu.
Kanchi cotton sarees are the ideally suited sarees that fills the gap for the people who prefer the appeal and beauty of a Kanchi Silk but want an alternative and economical variant for Silk sarees that gives comfort and the same elegance. The unique and culturally rich motifs and borders are influenced by all the temples present in the city. In the present times, the aesthetics and comfort of this saree have been designed to match the current trend, yet maintaining its authenticity, and the overall appeal of a rich silk saree. The Kanchi cotton saree has become very renowned and popular all across the globe and is high in demand, as it is considered to be one of the finest sarees in the world.
What is the History and Origin of Kanchi Cotton Sarees?
The origin of the weaving of Kanchi cotton sarees can be traced back to the time of Sage Markanda, who was the weavers for the Gods. It is said that the Kanchi cotton weavers are descendants of Sage Markanda. It is believed that cotton was one of Lord Shiva’s favourite fabrics and, the weavers of Kanchi are the descendants of those who used to weave this fabric for the lord mainly using lotuses. It is believed that this fabric originated during the reign of the Lords on this earth. Kanchipuram, along with being known as the textile centre of the world, is also renowned for the many temples it is home to, and it is from these temples that the Kanchi cotton saree design and motifs are influenced by.
What is Kanchi Cotton Sarees?
Kanchi cotton saree is a style of saree made in the city of Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, and in many ways is similar to the Kanchipuram silk saree, apart from the fabric. The city of Kanchipuram has its own cotton handlooms where the various kinds of Kanchipuram Silk Sarees and Kanchi Cotton wear are manufactured. This hand-spun cotton saree has a certain charm and elegance along with its simplicity. The designs and motifs appearing on this saree are very similar to those appearing on the silk variants. The motifs and patterns mostly consist of lines that are often wide and temple style, which give the saree a unique impression. The Kanchi cotton sarees are also available in various zari borders and dotted pallu styles as well.
These sarees are solely influenced by the designs and stature of the temples in the city. The large and precise designs that are present on the temples are drawn along the length of the saree. Most of the sarees that originate from this region are basically simple with vibrant coloured borders. Contrasting border sarees are in high demand in this fabric and region. There is a tremendous similarity in the designs of some versions of the silk and cotton sarees in Kanchipuram such as –
a) The silk as well as the cotton sarees of Kanchipuram are inspired mostly by the temple designs.
b) Most of the saree designs for Kanchipuram cotton or silk are either striped designs or checks.
c)Initially, both the variants of cotton and silk were made in earthy colours, however, the trend has recently changed to more vibrant colours.
Mostly used in designing sarees, the innovations are usually found in the colours that are being used to define these sarees. Starting from the regular Pattu saree colours that usually define the colourful and rich heritage and tradition of Tamil Nadu, currently, these cotton sarees have found a variety of new shades based on the trend that’s going around. There are a lot of sarees that bear the original shades of silk variants. The style of the cotton sarees has also been modified to match the style and trend of the present times.
What are the tools and raw materials used in Kanchi Cotton Sarees?
There are various tools and raw materials that are used for the making of the Kanchi cotton sarees such as:-
- Cotton yarn:
The basic raw material used for the weaving of Kanchi cotton - Threads:
Cotton threads of approximately 2/40’s, 2/60’s and 2/80’s count threads are used for weaving the sarees. - DyeingColors:
The cotton threads are dyed as per the desired and required color combinations and designs of the sari to be woven. - Floor Looms:
These are the traditional weaving machine that is used for weaving the saree. - Fly-Shuttle:
This tool helps to carry the cotton threads, through the warp sheds which are interlocked in the spindle while weaving. - Warping Machine:
This machine is used to make a warp as per the requirement of the design.
A warping machine generally has the shape of a cylindrical drum. - Reeling Machine:
It helps in converting the threads into reels and or onto bobbins.
What is the process of weaving Kanchi Cotton Sarees?
The basic raw material used for the weaving of Kanchi cotton sarees is pure cotton which is, first coloured by boiling the cotton threads in a solution of a very high-temperature dye bath. The coloured cotton is then shaped according to requirement and then loaded into the loom for weaving the Kanchi cotton sarees. Here are some important stages in the process of weaving the Kanchi cotton saree.
Dyeing:
First, the cotton threads are put into a solution boiling dye bath for few minutes in order to absorb the dye colour. The longer the boiling process, the more it helps the colour to stay permanent and stays longer and doesn’t fade. Once they are out of the solution, the coloured threads are then washed in cold water and laid out in the sun to dry at room temperature. The coloured cotton is then sent for spinning and warping processes.
Spinning:
The cotton threads obtained from the rolls or bobbins are then spun into the spindle. Spindles are readied according to the various colours of threads, and according to the design and patterns of the saree to be woven. Later these spindles are interlocked in the flying shuttle. Then a handmade spinning wheel is used to help the artisans to spin the threads and make it easy for weaving without any inconsistency of the threads. The spinning process is done with the help of a spinning wheel, that is locally known as Charkha.
Warping:
After the process of spinning is completed, the warping is done to support the stretching of the threads. The threads of cotton are then reeled into the circular shaped wooden machine for the warping. The threads are then stretched and tied at the opposite ends. Then the cotton threads are checked to make sure there are no inconsistencies. The warp is then examined, and after examining the warp, it is spun in the warp beam and sent for weaving.
Weaving:
The sarees are woven entirely by hand on a handloom. The warp threads are then loaded into the warp beam and then weaving is done with the help of heddles and a foot pedal. The flying shuttle is then passed through the warp shed to move ahead with the weaving. The weavers use multi-coloured spindles according to the design requirements and the texture of the sarees.
The price of a Kanchi cotton saree ranges from INR 1500 to INR 5000, depending on the quality of the fabric, the designs and motifs.
Being a cotton saree, the Kanchi cotton saree is ideal for all-weather and events, be it formal or informal. The Kanchi Cotton Sarees are a perfect blend of comfort, simplicity and elegance.