Maheshwar, a small town in Madhya Pradesh, is the producer of the Maheshwari sarees. It is believed that in the 18th century when Rani Ahilyabai Holkar ruled Indore in Madhya Pradesh, the Maheshwari sarees took birth.
According to history, Ahilyabai Holkar ordered weavers from Malwa and Surat to design and weave a special 9-yards saree that would be gifted to all the royal family members, relatives and guests. The Queen herself is said to have designed the first saree, which later came to be known as Maheshwari sarees.
The Art and The Process of Maheshwari Sarees
Materials Used
The Maheshwari sarees traditionally were made only in pure silk. With changing times, it was produced in pure cotton as well as in cotton and silk mixtures (cotton in the weft, silk in the warp). In the present day, wool is also used in the production of Maheshwari sarees.
What are the Preparation and the Making process of Maheshwari Sarees?
- The cotton yarns are obtained from Coimbatore and the silk yarns are brought from Bangalore. The wool is imported from Australia.
- The yarns are sent for dyeing and are received in bundles by the weavers post-dyeing.
- The threads need to be untangled and stretched to make them tighter for both warp and weft.
- These threads are then sent for reeling. In this process, the bundle of threads are converted into small rolls using a charkha. A big motorised charkha is used for the warps and a small hand-driven charkha is used to make the weft bobbins.
- When it comes to the warping of the silk threads, a more delicate process is used. It involves the use of an octagonal cylindrical frame and hooks.
- The dyed and untangled yarns are then ready to go for the weaving process. The weaving of Maheshwari sarees is a tedious and time-consuming process done by the master weavers.
- There are two types of handlooms used in Maheshwar – the traditional pit looms that are heavy and fixed, and the modern frame looms that have lightweight metal frames. The modern frame looms are the more famous types.
- Traditionally, the fabrics were dyed in naturally obtained colours. The richness of the weaves was enhanced with the use of zari and kinari. Gemstones, gold and silver threads were also used by the weavers to embellish the sarees and add shimmer to the saree.
Colours
- Traditionally, the weavers used only the natural dyes for the yarns and thus, the Maheshwari sarees were available in colours like red, maroon, purple, green and black.
- Nowadays, Maheshwari sarees are made in several jewel tones which are procured from chemicals instead of natural elements like roots, flowers, leaves etc.
- Some of the popular colours of today are mauve, blue, pink, orange and yellow with gold or silver threads.
- Different coloured threads are used in the warp and weft to produce subtle colour combinations and textures on the saree.
- Gold thread or zari is also used to embellish the sarees by weaving elegant motifs on the pallu, border and body of the saree.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43PAFqXmOZo
Borders, Patterns and Motifs of Maheshwari Sarees
- Maheshwari sarees, just like many other traditional sarees, uses a lot of traditional designs that might have been prevalent in the area for ages.
- These sarees use fewer motifs and more linear patterns. The main body is usually plain with a solid colour or has striped or checkered patterns. The border and the pallu might have geometric designs for embellishment.
- The motifs were inspired by the local flora and the architecture. An abstract representation of them can be seen on the sarees.
- The authentic Maheshwari sarees have motifs inspired by the details of palaces and forts, the ornate stone carvings on the walls of the temples of Madhya Pradesh.
- Some of the popular designs are a) the Chattai pattern or the mat pattern, b) Chameli ka Phool. The inspiration for all these motifs can be traced back to the details on the walls of Maheshwar Fort.
- The Eent (brick) pattern and the Heera (diamond) patterns have survived through evolution and still have a strong presence in the Maheshwari sarees.
- The sarees are known for their narrow coloured border embellished with zari. The borders are known as Bugdi and are reversible, i.e they can be worn on both sides.
- The pallus are made in bright colours such as mauve, violet, magenta, pink, maroon and green.
What are the types of Maheshwari Sarees?
Based on Border- Some of the varieties that are available based on the designs of the border are Maheshwar Bugdi Kinar, Zari Patti, Rui Phool Kinar, Phool Kinar, Chattai Kinar, Kahar Kinar, Bajuband Kinar, and many more.
Based on the body of the saree- There are mainly five categories, namely a) Chandrakala, b) Baingani Chandrakala, c) Chandratala, d) Beli and e) Parbi.
Chandrakala and Baingani Chandrakala are varieties of the plain body type whereas, Chandratala, Beli and Parbi are varieties of the checkered and the striped type.
What are the Unique Features of Maheshwari Sarees?
- These sarees are loved by women not only for their elegance but for their lightweight nature and glossy finish.
- The sarees were traditionally made just in pure silk. Nowadays, these are available in cotton, silk and wool as well.
- Unlike Banarasi and Kanjeevaram sarees, Maheshwari sarees are a perfect choice for women throughout the year.
- These sarees are known for their narrow coloured border embellished with zari, narrow stripes, small checks and solid colour in the body.
- The pallus are done in bright colours and have a very distinct feature. There are five alternating stripes out of which 2 are white and the rest are coloured. This feature gives the saree a typical Marathi look and is thus popularly known as Indori sarees in Maharashtra.
- The borders of Maheshwari sarees are reversible and are known as Bugdi. They can be worn on both sides.
- The use of Kinari and zari is unique to Maheshwari sarees.
- The border of these sarees is embellished with leaves and flowers in a Karnphool pattern.
What is the Difference between Chanderi and Maheshwari sarees?
- Both the saree have plain bodies. The geometric motifs of Maheshwari sarees are unique to them.
- Chanderi sarees have buttis woven on the main body but Maheshwari sarees won’t have them. Whereas Maheshwari sarees have stripes or checkered patterns on their body but Chanderi saree won’t have them.
What is the Price range of Maheshwari Sarees?
A Maheshwari saree might range from Rs. 2000 and above.
How to Maintain Maheshwari Sarees?
- For the first wash, it is recommended to send the Maheshwari sarees for dry cleaning. After that, one can either hand wash or gentle machine wash these sarees with mild detergent.
- Avoid soaking the saree in the detergent for long.
- Use cold water to wash these sarees.
- Iron these sarees at low or medium heat.
What is the Current Scenario of Maheshwari Sarees?
During the British era and the Independence of India, the Maheshwari Saree industry had declined and was on the verge of extinction. At that time, Richard Shivaji Rao Holkar and Sally Holkar established Rehwa, a non-profit organisation to provide a new life to the weavers and this dying age-old tradition.
Rehwa is located in the Fort of Maheshwar. This is the place from which Rani Ahilyabai Holkar used to rule Indore. Rehwa has its retail outlets in Mumbai and New Delhi. Most of their sales happen through other private retailers. A continuous supply of work is provided by a major export market in France, UK and Germany. This helps the innovators keep up with changing global trends and helps them cater to the tastes and needs of the changing times.