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Phanek-Innaphi: The Manipuri masterpiece craft

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Phanek and Innaphi is a traditional Manipuri dress. It is a women’s costume consisting of a wrap-around cloth called Phanek and a shawl that is called Innaphi.

Manipur, a small state of Eastern India, is richly artistic and has a tradition and culture unique from other parts of the country. People following the Hindu religion and Sanamahi are mostly situated in the valley of Imphal, the capital of Manipur. On the other hand, the hills are populated with people from different tribes like the Nagas and Kukis. The citizens of Manipur are called Meiteis and the language spoken is known as Meiteilon.

 

Women of Manipur wearing Inaphi

What is Phanek Innaphi?

The phanek is a traditional garment worn by women of the Meitei community in the Indian state of Manipur. It is worn wrapped around the waist like a sarong, and is considered an item of daily clothing for older generations, but is typically only worn on special occasions by younger women.

Phanek is like a sarong worn in other parts of the country. But what makes a Manipur Phanek different from the other sarongs is its unique style, colour and design. It is usually worn as a mini saree or a wrap-around skirt. It is paired with a blouse and an upper cloth or a Manipuri Innaphi. There are two types of Phaneks available, the Meitei Phanek and the Tribal Phanek. Here is a detailed guide on how to drape a Phanek.

Innaphi is a colourful and attractive piece of clothing, similar to a shawl or dupatta. The Innaphi dress is used to cover the upper part of the body by women.

History of Phanek Innaphi?

Sarongs have been a part of the costume of many regions of India for many centuries. They have been an integral part of the Manipuri culture since its inception, but there is no record of Phanek-Innaphi being a part of the traditions of Manipur.

However, there are many beliefs attached to the costume. For example, there is one belief that if a used Phanek dress of manipur is sewn into a men’s shirt, then that shirt brings great glory and victory in their adventurous endeavours like battles and hunting.

Materials Used and Aesthetics in Phanek Innaphi 

Phanek:

  • They are made out of cotton or silk fabrics. Nowadays, synthetic materials are also used as Phanek fabric.
  • They are handwoven.
  • They are available only in solid colours and stripes. They are also often block printed.
  • No bold designs or floral prints can be seen in traditional attire.

Innaphi:

  • They are mostly woven in silk fabric that gives them a translucent finish. The Innaphis are almost transparent because of the way they are woven.
  • They are rectangular.
  • They are available in various colours and designs. The colours in which they are available range from subtle to bright shades, adding to the colourful essence of this ethnic attire.
  • The Innaphi fabric also has delicate floral designs on them.

The women of Manipur wear the Phannek-Innaphi with a beautiful blouse.

Embroidery

  • Akoibi embroidery – It is a famous embroidery that is usually seen on Manipuri dresses. It brings the dresses into the spotlights. The Akoibi patterns are either circular in shape or snake-like.
  • Abhala embroidery – It is a Manipuri style Mirror-work embroidery that is enticing and gorgeous. It is mainly used on the costumes worn during the Raas Leela festivals to adorn them.

What are the Types of Phanek Innaphi?

  • Mayek Naibi – It is a very special kind of Phanek. It makes for the perfect attire for formal places like an office or even for any festive occasion like a marriage ceremony. These are handwoven and has horizontal stripes. The bottom part of a Mayek Naibi is adorned with various designs and heavy embroidery work. It is a go-to attire for anyone who wishes to flaunt ethnic with sophistication.
  • Kanap Phanek – It is a traditional cloth that is stitched into a skirt form by the Meitei females.
  • Lai-Phi – It is a beautiful white piece of cloth that has an intricate border of yellow colour.
  • Chin-Phi –  Amongst the several costumes worn by Manipuri women on several occasions, Chin-Phi is a very important traditional attire for her. It is a Phanek that has intricate embroidery all over it.
  • Rani Phi – It is a slightly modernised and trendy version of an Innaphi and is readily available. It is made up of silk threads, modern dyes and different motifs. Check out our collection of Rani Phi.

 

Bala Hijam wearing traditional Rani Phi

What is the Price Range of Phanek Innaphi?

When it comes to cost, a cotton Phanek is usually available for less than Rs 1,000. Whereas, a designer phanek like a Rani Phi can range as high as Rs. 20,000 or even more.

What is the Current Scenario of Innaphi and Phanek Dress?

  • With time, Manipuri women have given a twist to old-style clothing by modernising them a bit. For example, the way a woman wears a Phanek resembles a wrap-around skirt. Also, the women pair the traditional Innaphis with the modern wrap-around skirts.
  •  Traditionally, Manipuri dresses had a coarse texture as it was made out of the bark of a creeper called Uriphi. Over time, this material was substituted with cotton and silk fibres. Due to the coarse texture, it lacked its delicate and beautiful aesthetics.

 

How to pronounce Phanek?

 

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