The word “Ajrakh” means blue, in Arabic and Persian. It is said to be a symbol that depicts the universe because of its color palette, which consists of a variety of colors such as red which symbolizes the earth, black which symbolizes darkness white symbolizes clouds, and blue which symbolizes the universe itself. The star-studded sky with black and crisp blue background. That is what Ajrakh is linked to.
A textile that symbolizes the universe, and is held in high regard due to its unique and innovative style of manufacturing is worth deep-diving into.
What is an Ajrakh Saree?
Ajrakh is a wooden block printed textile that is resist-dyed using natural dyes such as indigo and madder. Resist-dyeing is a traditional method used to apply colours or patterns to fabric. One important feature of Ajrakh printing is that the same design or printing is combined with other dyeing and printing techniques on a single fabric.
Another feature is that it is printed on both sides, which makes it convenient to wear on any side.
Mud-resist is used in various stages and to ensure maximum quality and style of design, the dyeing and printing are repeated twice on the fabric, so as to sharpen the quality.
Ajrakh Saree is essentially a block-printed textile that is thought of as the purest blend of tradition and culture. Ajrakh print or Ajrakh Fabric or Ajrakh sarees are from the Kutch region of Gujarat, India. The patterns and motifs are inspired by nature and are characterized by their intricate geometric designs. The printing process is complex and time-consuming, involving multiple stages such as preparing the fabric, block carving, printing, and washing. The colors used in Ajrakh printing are derived from natural dyes, such as indigo and madder. Ajrakh sarees are known for their beauty and durability and are highly valued by artisans and collectors.
The History and origin of Ajrakh print and Ajrakh Sarees
Ajrakh, a traditional hand-block printed fabric, has a rich history dating back to early medieval times. The craft is believed to have originated from Western India and scraps of printed fragments were even found at Fostat near Cairo. The Ajrakh makers, who belong to the Khatri community, originally lived on the banks of the Sindh River (Indus in present-day Pakistan) and migrated to Kutch in the 16th century. The King of Kutch had recognized the craft and invited them, along with dyers, printers, potters, and embroiderers, to settle in the barren uninhabited land. Checkout our collection of the latest kutch ajrakh sarees
The Khatri community were initially Brahmins who worked as dyers. However, two generations later they converted to Islam and settled in Dhamadka due to its proximity to a river where they washed their fabric. For 400 years, the community thrived in this area, but in 1989, the river dried up and water levels from wells and tanks continued to fall. A massive earthquake in Kutch in 2001 forced the block printers to relocate. They settled in Ajrakpur, a village built in coordination with relief NGOs.
Today, there are over one hundred families living in Ajrakpur and 30 official block printing workshops. Almost all of the families in Ajrakpur generate their primary income from Ajrakh. The tradition of Ajrakh is still maintained in Kutch, as well as in Khavda, Dhamadka, and Barmer in Rajasthan.
The name “Ajrakh” is believed to have originated from the phrase “aj ke din rakh”, which means “keep it for one more day”. It is said that a king was so fond of his bedspread that he insisted his maids let it stay on his bed for one more day. Another theory suggests that the name derives from the Sanskrit word “A-jharat” or “that which does not fade”. The Arabic word “Azrak” (blue) could also have played a role in its etymology due to the extensive use of indigo in the process.
The earliest use of Ajrakh can be traced back to the civilizations that flourished around the Indus River in Sindh. An idol of a King-Priest excavated at a site in Mohenjo-Daro shows him draped in this fabric, which depicts the earliest use of Ajrakh. It had a trefoil pattern printed on the garment believed to be the ‘Kakkar’ or cloud pattern in Ajrakh printing. Similar geometry of the trefoil is evident in the present Ajrakh patterns.
There is also a legend that Ajrakh printers are descendants of King Rama. The Kshatriya (Hindu term for warriors) became Khatri and they came to Kutch from Sindh around 400 years ago. Records show that Kutch ruler Rao Bharmalji invited craftsmen to meet the growing needs of the people and the royal court.
The historical summary in a timeline
- Early medieval times: Ajrakh craft is believed to have originated from Western India
- 16th century: Khatri community migrates from Sindh to Kutch, invited by the King of Kutch
- Two generations later: Khatri Brahmins convert to Islam and settle in Dhamadka for its proximity to a river for washing their fabric
- 1989: The river in Dhamadka dries up and water levels from wells and tanks continue to fall
- 2001: Massive earthquake in Kutch forces block printers to relocate to Ajrakpur, a village built in coordination with relief NGOs
- Present day: Ajrakh traditions are maintained in Kutch, and in Khavda, Dhamadka, and Barmer in Rajasthan.
Types of Ajrakh
There are a total of 4 types of Ajrakh. These are themes rather than types. These themes are based on the color and the pattern of motifs.
1. Do Rangi Ajrak
2. Kori Ajrak
3. Sabuni Ajrak
4. Teli Ajrak
The Process of making Ajrakh Saree and Ajrakh Fabric
Nature plays an important role in the making of Ajrakh. The craftsmen work in total harmony with their environment, where the sun, river, animals, trees and mud are all part of its making.
There is a lot of patience and skill required in the making of an Ajrakh saree. It takes about 14-21 days to make an Ajrakh saree as there are almost 16-17 different steps of dyeing and printing.
The process is extremely tedious so that the resulting saree made is smooth and silky soft against the skin and looks very glamorous and glittering like the ornaments accompanying it that give it a scintillating touch and make it very appealing to the eyes.
Here are the various steps involved in the making of this unique and beautiful Ajrakh saree:-
- The cotton fabric is washed thoroughly with castor oil and soda ash to remove the excess starch in it and then it is dried overnight. This process is reiterated 8-9 times so that the fabric starts foaming when rubbed. And it is finally washed down with water and the final process is called “Saaj”.
- The fabric is dyed in a cold solution of Myrobalan before printing because it ensures that the print on the fabric stays intact. This process is called Kasanu.
- Now to create an outline a wooden block is used multiple times with lime and gum. The wooden block has intricate motifs imprinted on it and is crafted by a master craftsman. The wooden block is made of teak and after it is once used, the edges are smoothened and oiled so that it can be reused again. This process is called Khariyanu.
- As mentioned above indigo and madder are the most commonly used dyes in the making of Ajrakh Saree. The dye is made using a mixture of lime, water, and natural indigo, sagikhar, and castiora in a clay vessel. It takes about a month to ferment after which the solution turns yellow indicating that is ready.
- The process of printing starts once the dye and wooden block are ready. Some of the commonly used motifs are flowers, moon, stars, and birds. The process is lengthy and almost takes a fortnight depending on the complexity and intricacy of the design.
- Once the process of printing on the fabric is completed, the cloth is thoroughly washed with water and then laid out on a flat surface to dry. This process is called Vichharun.
- To increase the sustainability and longevity of the saree, a solution of lime and turmeric is used to spray on the saree. It also ensures the sharpening and enhancement of the colours and designs.
- The final step consists of washing the saree in an alum solution. Then the fabric is finally washed with water the last time and dried and after that, it’s ready to be used.
These 8 steps are spread over a span of months and are extremely tedious and delicate. These require master craftsperson to pull it off and hence every Ajrakh saree is an art in itself.
The Ajrakh sarees are made with the utmost care, love, dedication, and passion and hence it holds a special place in the heart and mind of every woman. Every color tells a story and the design images the status.
In the early days, Ajrakh was worn only by men from the pastoral community of the Kutch, but today these sarees are traditionally worn by the women of the pastoral Maldhari community it has become a fashion statement for every woman, searching for something organic, ethical and trendy fashion quotients.
The dyes used in Ajrakh printing offer a unique characteristic to the saree. During the summer season, it expands the pores of the fabric, making it easy for air to flow through thus making it comfortable and skin-friendly and when the winter season arrives, the pores of the fabric close, providing warmth. Thus, it makes the Ajrakh saree suitable to wear throughout the year.
Ajrakh sarees are ideal to wear during office parties, informal events, weddings tea- parties, and various other occasions as well, because their texture is so buttery smooth, and flowy, it makes it easier for a woman to carry them and wear them.
The price of an Ajrakh saree ranges from INR 2000 to INR 10,000 and more depending on the motifs, design, and quality.
The time, effort, and resources invested by a crafter to create the Ajrakh saree are beyond reproach. To them, it’s not just a cloth, but a work of art rich in cultural heritage and tradition, and hence the Ajrakh sarees turn out to be the most majestic and royal looking and is a heart-warming garment for any woman.