The Bandarulanka sarees are a kind of sarees that get their name from the village where it originated, that is Bandarulanka. Bandarulanka is a town in Amalapuram Mandal which is in the East Godavari district of the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. Apart from all the other local speciality, Amalapuram is famous for this variety of cotton saree.
This Bandarulanka village is famous for its production and manufacturing of beautiful handloom sarees since ancient times. It is said that Bandarulanka sarees are one of the most comfortable as well as affordable sarees among all the other sarees. There are very expert and skilled weavers and artists in this village whose families still depend on the production and weaving of Bandarulanka sarees for their living. It is more than just a saree for them, it is a symbol of their rich culture and tradition and more of a family heritage which has been going on for many centuries and the knowledge of its making is transferred from generation to generation.
Along with the knowledge and culture, the weaving techniques and heritage has also been passed on from generation to generation. These sarees are available in a wide variety of colours, with rich and contrasting borders and booti motifs. Zari embroidery is also incorporated in the design to add to the richness of the fabric. No doubt, this variety of Andhra cotton saree is one of the famous saree of Andhra Pradesh.
What is the History and origin of Bandarulanka Sarees?
The origin of the Bandarulanka sarees can be traced back to Arunachal Pradesh around 1800 A.D. Although there are no texts or references mentioning the exact time of the origin and the flourish of the Bandarulanka sarees. However, the introduction of ikkat dyed patterns for the border of the saree was introduced about 60 years back, when a man is said to have bought a Pochampalli saree to the village and the local weavers and artists of the village were really awestruck by it and decided to incorporate it into the making of the Bandarulanka sarees.
What is a Bandarulanka Saree?
Bandarulanka Saree is simple yet elegant cotton sarees that are woven using an 80 count yarn and are available in various vibrant colours and shades which may vary from pastel to dark shades to meet the requirement, demand and preference of both urban and rural women. These are woven mostly by elder weavers of age 45-60.
These fine variants of cotton sarees are woven in 80’s count mostly with Dobby, Petu borders and Zari /Cotton butas. These sarees are woven in the region around the “Konaseema” area in the East Godavari District. The specifications include 80s x 80s Cotton yarn that is used for both warp and weft. The width is 45″ and the length is 5.50 Mts.
What is the Process of weaving of Bandarulanka Cotton Sarees?
The weavers of the Bandarulanka sarees weave the sarees when they have been ordered previously. The first step is to source the thread from Vijayawada, Chennai and Thanuku and the zari from Surat. The thread is then dyed in the desired colour. These threads then form sort of lumps which are then spun with the aid of a spinning wheel which is called Ratnam, which is identical to charka used in the weaving of other different sarees. This has to be done mainly so that the threads don’t get intertwined with each other.
Then all the spun thread required in the weaving for one whole saree is then spun again on a much bigger machine, which is known as Janthram. This machine resembles a big cylindrical wheel and it has the capacity to spin thread for 4 to 6 sarees at once. The thread which is needed for one saree is then moved to a machine which is called Maggam, on which the entire weaving of the saree is done. The weaver weaves the saree under the guided instruction of a person, according to the design specifications and requirements of the customer. This person is responsible for outsourcing all the materials and designs needed. There is another person who makes the design in the Maggam. Once this is done the weaver takes about one week to two weeks to weave a single saree working 8 to 10 hours a day. Here are the step by step process through which this saree is created:-
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Dyeing
The cotton yarn that is brought from Vijaywada, Chennai etc are first polished and then bleached with a chemical to remove dirt or impurities. They are then rinsed and then dyed with various vat dyes of different colours. The weavers adjust the intensity of the colour according to the different shades and tints they are trying to achieve. Around 6-7 men are involved in this process.
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Drying
The cotton yarns are then hung out in the sun to dry.
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Winding
The next step is winding the yarns for the warp. The winding of yarns for the warp is done with the aid of a big charkha, called Jantaram. 36 sarees can be winded for warp at a single time. It takes around 2 days to complete a single set. The charkha is then rotated entirely by hand both in the clockwise and anti-clockwise directions to achieve the 8 different shapes.
Now, the winding of yarns for weft is done in Ratnam. Ratnam is a small accessible charkha that is commonly found in the house of every weaver. The main goal here is to change the han yarns into a small reel so that they can fit into shutting.
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Street Sizing
The yarns are then starched in a special solution Sizing is the starching of yarns to make them crisp and strong. This step is known as sizing. The main sizing agent is ‘Ganji’, which is basically boiled rice water and is the primary ingredient for starching. Now, at first, the 36 yards of yarns are attached to a wooden stand and then folded in half. Then, the starch is sprayed with the help of a spray noozle and spread all over the yarn uniformly with the help of a brush. This process is repeated several times until the desired result is achieved.
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Street Warping
After the process of sizing is completed, the yarns of the warp are then rolled into a roller, which is known as ‘bonda’ for the remaining stages of weaving.
Now, for the yarns that are already processed and free of dirt and impurities, the ones that don’t need starching, warping is done separately through the same arrangements.
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Weaving
After the weaver gets the ‘bonda’, warped yarns, they are set into their looms. The cotton yarns are then passed through combs and are held together by white threads called ‘jaal’. The ends of the yarn are then tied to another roll, and after the weft is done, the sarees are kept here. The reels of the weft yarn are then inserted into the shuttle, and finally, the weaving process takes place. The last step in weaving bandarulanka cotton sarees is similar to the weaving of all other cotton sarees.
Once the weaving is completed, they are then scanned for defects, then packed and is ready to be delivered to the market.
The Bandarulanka Saree are very economical and comfortable as well as elegant and durable as compared to other sarees. The simplicity of the sarees combined with its rich cultural traditions and heritage make it an absolutely loved and desired saree all across the nation.
The price of a Bandarulanka Saree ranges from INR 400 to INR 1000.
As the Bandarulanka Saree is made of cotton, it is a perfect choice for any season or occasion or event. The fabric is breathable, which means that it allows the air to pass through, keeping it cool. The fabric is extremely skin-friendly and prevents all types of skin rashes.
Hence, these sarees are a must-have for any woman looking to drape themselves up in a simple, unique and scintillating saree.