Adapted from Hindi and Sanskrit, the word “Bandhej” means “bondage” or “tying”. It refers to the tie and dye method used to make beautiful, fine circular patterns in Bandhej or Bandhani sarees.
Bandhej Saree, also known as bandhani saree is made primarily in Gujarat and Rajasthan, although due to the increasing demand for Bandhej sarees online, they are manufactured all over the nation.
What is the History and Origin of Bandhej Sarees?
Traces and references of Bandhej in History
The origin of the Bandhej or Bandhani saree can be traced back to the Indus Valley civilization, dating back to almost 4000 B.C.
The Buddhist painting in the Ajanta caves dating back to the 6th century has bandhani references. It is also said that Alexander the Great had eulogized a lot about Bandhani sarees during his time in India.
According to historical texts, the Bandhej sarees were first worn in a royal wedding of King Harshavardhan’s sister, as documented in Bana Bhatta’s Harshacharita.
History of its making
It is said that the ancient technique of making traditional Bandhej Sarees started around 5000 years in Rajasthan and Gujarat. Many attribute the invention of the technique to the Khatri community in Gujarat, also known for manufacturing the world-renowned Ajrakh Sarees.
The communities in Mandvi, Jamnagar, Anjar and Bhuj in Gujarat have been making Bandhej sarees for centuries. Simpler Bandhani patterns have been linked to Ahmedabad, Baroda, Deesa, Morbi, Porbandar, Rajkot and Surendranagar district in Gujarat.
The city of Bhuj and Jamnagar is famous for its red Bandhej saree, as the quality of water available there helps add an amazing sharpness to the red-colour palette.
In Rajasthan, the entire city of Jaipur is famous for its production of Bandhani sarees and there are many Bandhej saree markets in Jaipur. The finest quality Bandhej sarees are made in Bikaner, Jodhpur and Sikar districts. Almost every city and district of Rajasthan is engaged in making Bandhej Sarees, and many Bandhej saree centres can be found all over the states of Rajasthan as well as Gujarat.
What is Bandhej Saree?
Bandhej Sarees are those sarees that are made by the ancient technique of ‘tie and dye’, and is generally a form of hand-done textile or craft. Tie and dye is the process of tying a piece of fabric before dipping it in dye to create patterns on the fabric.
It generally comprises small circular patterns, known as the “dots” or “specks” that are created using tying, by using iron nails or fingernails.
The dots motifs in this saree are very distinctive and it is what lends this saree a special attraction, and these dots are used to create special designs such as floral or animal patterns or some other variations.
There are various Bandhani patterns available based on the number of dots in the saree, such as Ek Bundi, Chaubundi or Saat Bundi. Bundi refers to the dots in the saree. The small dots having darker centres are known as Boond, while the dots that are tear-shaped are known as Kodi.
How are Bandhej Sarees made?
Materials used in the making of Bandhej Sarees
1) White or unbleached fabric.
2) Thick cords that are used to print the designs.
3) Geru, which is a mixture of red or orange earth mixed with some water.
4) Design stencils, made of plastic sheets.
5) Thick, waterproof cotton strings are used to tie the Bandhani.
Fabrics used in Bandhej Saree
1) Fine mill-made cotton or muslin was used traditionally in the making of a Bandhej Saree and hence cotton Bandhej sarees are the most available among all the others.
2) Nowadays, the artisans prefer working on pure georgettes, art silks, silk-cotton blends, viscose and other cotton variants, along with Zari borders, Zardozi embroidery etc to give it that glossy look. Chiffon Bandhej sarees are also in high demand due to their stylish and extravagant looks.
3) Georgette with Banarasi brocade borders are used to make Banarasi Bandhej sarees.
4) Due to increasing demand for silk Bandhej sarees, nowadays even silk is used in the making of Bandhani sarees, but silk is fragile and lacks intricacy related to tight tying and unravelling needs, and so silk is mixed with cotton or viscose for durability and complex designs.
Steps involved in the making of a Bandhej Saree
1) Plain white fabric is cut and impurities are checked by using dye absorption before washing.
2) The fabric is then stitched around the edges and folded into two or more layers to keep them together for printing.
3) Traditionally, the fabric was dipped in geru originally, but now they are placed in design stencils made of plastic sheets and laid out on a table for printing designs.
4) Designs are at first hand-drawn on the paper, with a needle so that the design transfers onto the paper in small dots, and finally, when the paper is put on the fabric, a mixture of dye and water is spread over the plastic, so that the design transfers directly onto the saree.
5) The saree is then handed over to a tying artist, also known as Bandhanara who pinches the design onto the fabric using a hammered nail or an iron nail, with a pointed tip. The artist then ties the fabric into tight knots with the help of a cotton thread that covers the elevated part.
6) The thread is then put through a metal, ivory, plastic so that it passes through gently and evenly while tying. The thread that is used for tying rests on the type of material used, because the finer the quality of the fabric, the lesser the ties and count of the thread.
7) After the completion of the tying process, the saree is washed in a solution of hot water, after which the dyeing process is started.
8) For the dyeing process, the saree is immersed in a dye solution for almost a week, depending on the nature of the fabric, its darkness and colour.
9) After the completion of dyeing, the saree is gently washed in soft water to ensure that there are no impurities or extra dye left.
10) The saree is then left to dry for several hours before it can be sold. The saree is kept as it is without removing the ties so that the buyer can make sure of its originality and can enjoy watching the saree being unfold for the first time.
What are the Types of Bandhani Sarees?
1) Jhankaar Bandhani- A type of Bandhani saree, that is very colourful and gleamy and contains extreme intricate design patterns. It generally has red or maroon dots as compared to the other Bandhani sarees, which have white or light coloured dots.
2) BorJaal Bandhani- Highly popular among Marwari communities, this saree is a typical wedding saree. The name comes from its extremely fine and playful mixture of colours and dots, that creates a maze. Available in many colours and also available as pure georgette Bandhej sarees.
3) Colour Discharge Bandhani- In these types of sarees, lighter colours are visible over dark dot patterns. Deep red dots on a pale yellow base can be found in these types of sarees.
Bandhej Sarees can be found nowadays in a variety of colours such as purple, mustard yellow, beige, pink and black, although traditional Bandhej sarees are generally found in red, maroon, ochre, tangerine, indigo blues, turquoise blue, and deep green.
Due to the increased popularity and demand of Bandhej sarees, along with all the popular Bandhej saree centres and shops all over the nation such as in Kolkata, Pune, Mumbai, Bangalore, they can be found online on all the popular e-commerce websites such as Amazon, Flipkart, Snapdeal, PeachMode etc.
The price of Bandhej sarees range from around INR 1000- INR 10000 and more, depending on the type of fabric, motifs, designs, embroideries and any special customization. There are cheap Bandhej sarees available in the market under INR 1000, but their authenticity is hard to verify.
Due to their intricate designs and playful texture, they have also found a place in the heart of Bollywood and its celebrities. Fashion designers love working on Bandhej sarees to make their actresses dress up with these glittering and gleamy Bandhej sarees. Many Bandhej sarees have been featured in popular Gujarati, Rajasthani serials and films.
It takes a lot of skill and hard work, and ample amounts of time resources to make a Bandhej saree. It is the primary source of livelihood for many families. No doubt, its intricacy and beauty appeals to every woman and thus, it can be worn during any season or occasion, be it a party, informal event, a religious occasion or wedding. It has become a sensation not just in India, but all over the world.