The term ‘Batik’, is derived from an ancient Indonesian word ‘Ambatik’, which means a design of writing with wax or drawing broken lines on a piece of cloth containing small dots. It is an ancient art that uses wax and dyes to create scintillating visual imagery on fabrics and it is an art that is loved, admired and appreciated worldwide.
The Batik print sarees are simple, elegant, extravagant, and one of a kind sarees that are manufactured using local and traditional crafts mainly from the state of Rajasthan. Many multicoloured and intricate designs are made on the Batik sarees that are executed with the help of regional methods using dye and wax, which has been practised and perfected by local artists over centuries. The style of Batik printing was originally used to make handloom products of all types, but currently, it is mostly used to produce traditional and fashionable Indian garments such as batik sarees.
What is the History and Origin of Batik Sarees?
There are many stories and references regarding the place and period of origin of the Batik style of printing. But, the origin of the Batik style of printing can be traced back to the 1st century AD in India. Originally, this style of printing was only practised by the Khatri community of Gujarat.
With the advent of time, the Batik style of printing became less and less popular and gradually disappeared for a long time. Although, during the 20th century, Batik was started as a part of the syllabus at the University of Shanti Niketan in Kolkata. And that was the revival of the Batik style of printing, after which it really flourished.
Initially, the Batik prints were only done on fabrics such as cotton and silk, but owing to its high demand and requirement other fabrics like Georgette also are being used.
One of the finest Batik designs in India is said to come from the expert and skilled artists of Cholamandalam near Chennai in Tamil Nadu. Batik printing is also done in Gujarat, Rajasthan, Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra, West Bengal and Madhya Pradesh.
While the techniques used have evolved over time and the screen printing method is used to create beautiful designs, some artisans also prefer to do the Batik printing by hand.
What is a Batik Sarees?
Batik style of printing is an ancient and unique technique of dyeing that is renowned for the intricate patterns that it produces on different types of fabrics such as cotton and silk. The saree is dyed in various colours after applying wax in certain patterns and then the wax is removed to showcase unique designs.
The Batik print sarees are a classy mixture of tradition and modernity.
The Batik sarees are available in many different variants and kinds, ranging from the most simple and elegant to the most extravagant pieces. Hence, they are ideal for all kinds of situations as well as occasions. They can be used as daily wear, or can also be worn in all kinds of formal or informal events, weddings, religious ceremonies etc.
The tools used in Batik printing are wooden printing blocks, dyeing vats, large bowls, brushes and a frame for mounting the fabric. There are some other materials that are used such as paraffin wax, kerosene and dyes.
What is the Material and Variations of Batik Sarees?
In batik sarees, wax is thoroughly applied to the fabric so that the successive dyes can not penetrate inside the fabric by any means.
There are four important methods of making a Batik printed piece of fabric:
a) The splash method– In this process, the wax is sprayed and spread throughout the fabric in a haphazard motion and then the dye is spread onto the fabric. The resulting design is a composition of colours and patterns that are visually appealing.
b) The screen printing process – In this method, a stencil is used to draw and sketch out a design in a particular and uniform method.
c) The hand painting method – Kalamkari is used in this process, and it is done entirely by hand. Here the design is drawn and then the wax is scraped off the fabric.
d) The scratch and starch resist – There is another method used which is known as the scratch and starch resist
The most used traditional colours in the Batik style of printing are indigo, dark brown, and white which symbolises the three major Gods of the Hindu religion namely Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva, according to people. It is also said that the colours indigo and brown are mostly used in the process of dyeing as they are the most common and readily available natural dye.
What is the process of weaving of Batik Sarees?
For the design process, if there is a flower pattern in the saree then, the wax is at the first spread on the area that will consist of the flower pattern. Then, the white fabric is soaked in blue dye and laid out in the sun to dry.
After the process of dyeing is completed, the wax, which was spread over the design of the flower pattern, is removed from the cloth. Because the wax is used in such a way to stop the blue dye from spreading through the design, we now have a white flower on a blue background. In order to make the flower red in colour, the blue background is first covered with wax and then the fabric is soaked in a red dye. Now again, the wax is scraped off the cloth for a second time, but this time, a red flower appears on a blue background. This process is repeated multiple times with various colours. The dyeing is repeated for as many colours as required, starting from the lightest, and going to the darkest. After the completion of the whole printing process, the fabric is then washed several times in warm water. The warm water melts the wax and then, the wax is collected in a different container.
The knowledge and experience of using the wax and its quantity are paramount. The suitable combination for the Batik style of printing is wax at 30 per cent beeswax and 70 per cent paraffin wax. It is this experienced application that is really significant. It should be noted that, while spreading the wax on the fabric, the wax should not be overheated as it is very flammable. The order of using colours is also important.
Another thing that should be kept in mind while executing the Batik style of printing is that the fabric used should be strong and sturdy enough to withstand both the heat and wax. Hence, generally, cotton and pure silk are the best choice of fabric for Batik sarees as they are sturdy enough to withstand the high heat and temperature, and wax. Although in recent times, there are some other fabrics such as Georgette which are also being used. The batik style of printing is traditionally done entirely by hand, but sometimes even blocks are also used for wax printing. Blocks which are usually made of wood or metal are often used during the Batik style of the printing process.
The price of a Batik printed saree ranges from Rs. 1000/- to Rs. 1500/- for sarees made of cotton and for sarees made of silk, the price ranges between Rs. 4000/- to Rs. 10000/-..
Batik sarees have become a global phenomenon nowadays, owing to the different kinds of fabric in which they are made that provide comfort, elegance and a regal look.