Chanderi fabric derives its name from the namesake town, Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh, where it is produced. The weavers produce this textured saree by weaving golden zari and silk with the traditional cotton saree, giving it a shimmering texture.
History of Chanderi Sarees
The weaving culture of Chanderi emerged between the 2nd and 7th centuries, but it rose to its prominence only in the 11th century. During that time, due to its proximity to the arterial roots to the ancient ports of Central India, the Deccan region, Gujarat, Malwa and Mewar, Chanderi became an important trade route of India. In between the 12th and the 13th centuries, handloom Chanderi sarees were woven for the royalties.
There are many beliefs when it comes to the birth of this fabric. Some references are found in the Indian mythology of the Vedic period that suggests that the Chanderi fabric was introduced by Lord Krishna’s cousin Shishupal. While in Maasir-i-Alamgir (1658-1707), it is mentioned that Aurangazeb had ordered to make Khilats (a ceremonial robe or other gift given to someone by a superior as a mark of honour) with the use of a cloth embroidered with gold and silver. The fabric was transparent, beautiful, had fringes embellished with gold and silver and was expensive.
A Jesuit priest who had visited Marwar between 1740 and 1761 mentioned in his records that the Chanderi fabric was largely patronised by the royals and was even exported.
RC Sterndal, a British visitor, has mentioned that Chanderi sarees were prefered by Indian royal women due to their softness, transparency and light texture.
The Art and the Process of making Chanderi
Material Used
Traditionally, Chanderi fabric was woven with handspun cotton yarn which had a thread count of about 300. This made the fabric as famous as the Dhaka Muslins. The fine-count cotton was extracted from the root called Kolikanda and it was light, strong and gave the fabric a glossy finish.
Nowadays, in the weft 100s-120s or 2/100s to 2/120s cotton yarn is used and in the warp un-degummed mulberry silk yarn of 16/18 to 20/22 Denier count is used. The un-degummed silk makes the fabric transparent.
Earlier, zari made of pure gold and silver were purchased from Agra, but it is not used now. Nowadays, the best variety of tested zari that is brought from Surat is used by the weavers.
How are the Chanderi being made?
1. Dyeing of yarns:
The dyes were brought from Atul, Bulsar, Bombay and Delhi. The dyeing of yarns was done at co-operative society and was used for weaving. Vat dyes, Naphthol dyes and Acid dyes are used at Chanderi to produce checks or stripers. The dyed yarns are adjusted in a way that they create designs when the saree is woven.
2. Sizing of yarns:
For this process, Kolikanda is used. It is powdered and mixed with soft water to make a paste. A calculated amount of water is added and by heating and stirring constantly with a bamboo stick the required consistency is obtained. The dyed yarns, both silk and cotton, are stretched on bamboo sticks and the size is applied with a brush. About 2-3 layers are applied and then it is allowed to dry in the Sun.
3. Weaving:
The weavers of Chanderi come from the Shilpi castes and they take great pride in inheriting the profession.
For weaving, the weft yarn or the Bana is of cotton and the warp yarns or the Tana is of silk. The silk threads are so fine that the weavers have to place trays filled with water below the weft to make out the gossamer threads.
Often in the body of the sarees, both silk and gold threads are mixed. However, the border is usually made with gold thread.
The gummed silk or the yarns that are un-degummed are wet while warping as it increases the fineness of the yarns. As a result, the sarees appear gauzier when completed.
The fly shuttle pit loom is used to make these sarees. The 3 shuttle Nal Pherva is a very old technique that requires two weavers on a loom. This technique gave way to the most common throw shuttle pit loom that we know today.
The plain weave is used to make the entire saree.
4. Finishing:
In the end, the Chanderi sarees go through a process called the calendering process. They are finished with a Kundi, beaten down over a woodblock with a mallet, making the warp and weft more compact and giving the surface its characteristic shine.
How to Maintain Chanderi?
- Wash in cold water and use a mild detergent.
- Make sure to dry the fabric in shade and on the reverse side.
- Iron on the reverse side of the fabric. Do not iron in a folded state.
- Do not spray perfume on the zari. It might ruin the shine of the zari.
- Fold the fabric properly and use a hanger for storage.
How to distinguish Genuine Chanderi?
- The butis are coated with gold, silver or copper dust and are exclusively handwoven on a handloom.
- An original Chanderi has handspun motifs and it stands out as the weaves of the machine-spun weaves would come out easily over time.
- The transparency and sheerness of the fabric are unique to Chanderi fabric. The glossy texture and shine will set them apart from a fake copy.
- An original Chanderi saree will always be available in soft hues.
- Handwoven Chanderi will always have an uneven texture.