Dharmavaram sarees are the exclusive patronage of the town of Dharmavaram, 395 km south of Hyderabad, a small town of rich handloom cluster, situated in the District of Anantapur of Rayalaseema region in Andhra Pradesh. This ancient town gets its name from Dharmamba, the mother of Kriya Shakthi Vodavaru Swamy, who was the founder of this town. In the year 1153-54 AD, Kriya Shakthi Vodavaru Swamy had gotten a village constructed on the banks of the Chitravathi River and to commemorate his mother, Dharmamba, he named the town after her.
The town took to silk weaving naturally due to the abundance of mulberry trees around the area, making it a natural breeding ground for wild silkworms. The origin of Dharmavaram sarees can be found depicted on the roof wall paintings of the Lepakshi temple near Hindupur. By the 19th century, the Dharmavaram sarees got recognition throughout the nation for the sheer brilliance and beauty of the weave.
Initially woven as wedding sarees, in shades of red and yellow, but with time weavers innovated to include all colours, motifs, designs and embellishments to keep up with modern-day wants and increase their client base. Today, the process has been partially mechanized to assist the craftsmen in meeting the increasing demands of a global market. While these sarees are not more than a century old, they have become a firm favourite amongst the saree connoisseurs.
What is the Process of Weaving Dharmavaram sarees?
Base Material
Mulberry filature silk yarns are used in warp and charkha silk in the weft with gold tested zari (half fine zari as they are known locally) for extra warp and extra weft designing and sometimes, pure zari is also used for designing.
Weaving Process
Production of the Dharmavaram sarees and Paavadas (long skirts worn by young girls) includes different stages.
What reparation of Raw materials for Dharmavaram sarees?
- Procuring yarns – after collection of cocoons from sericulture, they are boiled in steam to obtain yarn and Denier silk which will undergo twisting.
- Degumming – the process involves boiling yarn in soda ash and soap water to remove natural gums.
- Plying of Yarn – It is done to create a balanced yarn which is done for both saree and paavadas.
- Dyeing – usage of acid dyes for shades from rainbow colours, plied yarn absorbs dye in hot water. The entire process has many things that need to be looked into, like liquor ratio, temperature, chemicals in dye, pH etc. The tie and dye method is involved in the Kuttu Dharmavaram saree weaving.
- Drying – after the above steps, the yarns are dried indoor on bamboo sticks
Pre-loom process
- Winding of hank yarn into warp and weft – charka, shift bamboo and bobbin are used to form the warp yarns whereas the weft is made with help of a pirn.
- Street sizing – spraying of rice congee on the warp extension ensures suitable weaving followed by drying.
What is the Weaving process of the Dharmavaram Sarees?
- Traditionally, Dharmavaram sarees involve the Warp and Weft technique, also known as the interlocked weft weaving technique. Sometimes replaced by Jacquard weaving where the designs are loaded on the computer, punched into a card and then loaded on the jacquard loom.
- Pit loom and frame loom fitted with two jacquards are mostly used for weaving these sarees. In this process, one jacquard is used for weaving border design while the other is used for weaving designs in the body and pallu. More than two jacquards are also employed for elaborate design.
- There is no use of power looms and Petni technique in weaving this saree.
- The elegant Dharmavaram silk is woven in two colours, giving an effect of muted double shades, accentuated by the solid colour border and pallu. The dual colour technique gives it a distinct twisted effect, unique to these sarees.
How are Motifs woven in Dharmavaram Sarees?
Dharmavaram sarees are one of the most religiously and ceremonially accepted sarees and therefore, most of the motifs are directed towards such emotions. Peacock feathers and peacock motifs make for the most popular designs, then the Brahmakamals, star designs and elephant designs. Most of the inspiration has been drawn from temple architecture and these intricate motifs are often represented on saree pallus. The motifs might also depend on the choice of the weavers and their genius.
What is the Usage of Dharmavaram Sarees?
- This saree is mostly used as the wedding saree by the South-Indian brides. The royal and majestic look of these sarees is suitable for any occasion of celebrations like traditional and religious ceremonies, and marriage functions, etc.
- These sarees are worn in winter or cold weather due to their thermal properties.
- These sarees are also majorly used by the Bharatanatyam and Kuchipudi dancers.
How to Identify a Dharmavaram saree?
- Most Dharmavaram silks sarees are made of genuine south silks. One can test the genuineness of the silk by burning one strand of thread. If it is authentic silk, it will burn like hair without leaving a residue.
- A distinct feature of Dharmavaram sarees is the double shading of the saree body created by using two colours in the weaving process.
- Dharmavaram also features a solid colour contrasting border and broad pallu with gold zari detailing on the border. These sarees have a well-defined gold plated border with self-woven artwork.
- Dharmavaram Saree has richly woven motifs of flora and fauna and designs inspired from the temple murals and paintings of the famous Lepakshi temple in Hindupur, Anantapur district.
Difference between Kanchipuram sarees and Dharmavaram sarees
Kanchipuram sarees are woven from pure mulberry silk and made in Kanchipuram. On the other hand, Dharmavaram sarees are woven with zari and mulberry silk and made in Dharmavaram.
How to Maintain Dharmavaram Sarees?
- Since most Dharmavaram sarees are made of heavy silk therefore professional dry cleaning is highly recommended.
- Preserve and store these sarees carefully, away from moisture for longevity and durability.
What is the Price range of Dharmavaram Sarees?
A Dharmavaram saree can range from Rs.2,000 to Rs.150,000 approx depending on the work and material. Daily wear sarees are of a lower range. The handloom variety is more expensive than the power loom variety for obvious reasons. Designer Dharmavaram sarees are highly prized and have become the priority for brides in the North of India too.
What is the Current Scenario of the Dharmavaram Sarees?
- Under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999, it’s registered as one of the geographical indications from Andhra Pradesh. Dharmavaram silks have gained extreme popularity on the international ground, especially in France and Germany.
- Today, due to the great demand, there are over 1500 silk manufacturing units and over one lakh looms in active production. The annual turnover is around 500 crores, where the majority of the industry is run by women, contributing significantly to rural families.
- In terms of design, Dharmavaram silks were predominantly made in combinations of yellow and maroon. They were the wedding or ceremonial sarees. Both these colours are considered auspicious in Hindu tradition. However, with more people being interested in the saree, the weavers incorporate several other shades into the saree and now are virtually available in all colours with the distinct double tone of the saree setting it apart from all other south silks.
- Modern-day Dharmavaram sarees are embellished with decorative stones, chamki, sequins, and Kundan, appealing to the younger generation, making it a perfect choice for wedding ceremonies, functions, pujas, etc.