Eri Silk, also known as Endi or Errandi in many parts of India, is derived from the word Era, which means castor in Assamese. The silkworm that produces Eri Silk feed on castor plants majorly. It is the eco-friendliest amongst all kinds of silks as it is the only domesticated silk produced in India whose process does not involve any killing of the silkworm, also naming Eri silk as Ahimsa (Ahinsa) silk or fabric of peace. It is called the father of all forms of cultured and textured Silks.
Eri Silk is one of the purest forms of silk that is a genuine product of the Samia cynthia ricini/Ailanthus silkmoth worm (scientific name) also known as the Eri silkworm. It is a sigil of sophistication with a touch of royalty. It goes perfect for any occasion or festival.
What is the Process of weaving Eri Silk?
The production of this silk does not involve killing the silkworms, instead, when the moths leave the cocoon, the open-mouthed cocoons are harvested to be spun, thus deriving the name Ahimsa silk. After the cocoons are procured, there are several steps involved in procuring the fibres.
- Degumming: To open Eri silk in its original, fluffy form, it is either boiled with soap water or scouring (cleaning) in a large tank through the process of hydro-extraction. Sericin gum, a coating on the filament of the cocoon that prevents it from opening with ease, is removed in this process.
- Fibre Cutting: The degummed cocoons are opened in a cocoon opener. This helps in further cutting the Eri silk fibres to the appropriate length. Cutting of this silk is the next part of the process but manual cutting is inefficient. So the twin-blade cutter, modified for Eri silk cutting, is suitable.
- Carding: It parallelizes and separates the Eri silk fibres to maintain the quality of the output. It is also essential to open and remove remnants of insects from the cut silk. The carded sliver fibres are made parallel and uniform with a series of gilling and drawing operations. In the next step, the short fibres that are present in the gilled uncombed silk sliver are removed.
- Spinning: The spinning of Eri silk filaments is more labour-intensive than other silks as they are broken fibres. They come out crisscrossed, entangled and disjointed and are impractical to reel therefore the fibres are drawn by fingers and spun like cotton or wool.
- Weaving: Since Eri yarns contain split fibres and knots they can be woven using a throw-shuttle loom only and not a flying-shuttle one. However, when Eri goes through all the above-mentioned processes, it makes a more uniform fabric.
What are the Qualities of Eri Silk?
- Eri Silk is the most textured silk. It needs a large amount of preservation and care strategy.
- It has shorter fibres than the other cultured silks that make it less durable.
- The spun threads are often more cottony than most Bombyx silks, yet some Eri yarns can be very soft and shiny.
- Eri silk is darker and heavier than other silks. It blends well with wool and cotton.
- This Silk derives a dull yellow, gold like sheen from the silkworms.
- This silk is warm in winters and cools in summers due to its thermal properties.
- It is one of the softest and purest forms of silks and is desired by almost all Silk lovers. It is a staple in every trend-setter’s wardrobe.
Which Indian states are the Producers of Eri Silk?
- In India, it is grown in Meghalaya, Assam, Nagaland, Manipur, Arunachal Pradesh, Bihar, Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Odisha, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, some small cities in other states as the warm and humid climate of these places are suitable for Eri culture.
- Eri-culture is a household activity of the tribals. It is practised mainly for protein-rich pupae, a delicacy for the tribal. The silk is used indigenously for preparing chaddars (wraps) for their use by these tribals.
- Over 95% of Eri Silk and all of the worlds Muga silk is cultivated here. These silks are the pride of North-East India.
- The bulk of this Silk production gave Assam the name of Eri Silk state.
What is the Usage of Eri Silk?
- For anyone who practices absolute non-violence or follows veganism, Eri silk fabric is a boon to them. It is mostly used by people of the regions in which it is produced. Due to its non-violent origin, Buddhist monks in India, Bhutan, Nepal, China, and Japan prefer this silk.
- The most significant output of Eri Silk remains silk drapes (Mekhela Sador) and silk sarees.
- Besides this, it is used for Odisha’s Pattachitras and Kantha stitches of Bengal.
How to Maintain Eri Silk?
- Eri Silks are not very durable as they are made out of shorter threads. Since their strength is lost when soaked in water, one should get their silk apparel dry cleaned.
- It is a breathable fabric and is suggested not to store in plastic as it affects the texture and the shine of these silk apparel.
What is the Current Scenario of the Eri Silks?
- The Meghalaya Eri silk industry is unorganized and inconsistent regardless of its huge potential. Despite the high demand, there are no full-time producers of this silk. Almost all the work is done by household women who have other chores of household, agriculture, child-bearing and rearing leaving them with little time to engage in this gainful but very time-demanding activity.
- Another problem is the lack of modern techniques. Whether it is spinning or weaving, the method of production used is still the traditional one and is very low in efficiency and output with inconsistent quality. The looms are mostly floor looms that do not give a fine weave and cause health problems for the workers.
- Improved machinery is the need for Meghalaya’s cottage Eri silk industry. If there is enough impetus from the Government and as the demand for this silk is very high in European markets, sericulture in Meghalaya can be a great foreign exchange earner.
- In Umden village of Ri Bhoi district, in collaboration with the Meghalaya government, Sidentraum, a German organization, has come to the aid of the weavers by providing them with better methods of production technology and machinery. They have provided them with Flying 8 looms which work faster and better and does not lead to back problems like the floor looms.
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