The Gichha saree, a distinctive textile from Eastern India, is celebrated for its unique texture and traditional craftsmanship. Ghicha or Khewa are the names given to the silk yarns that are basically the remains from Assamese Eri silk or Tussar silk. Ghicha is a silk yarn that is extracted directly from cocoons that remain after the reeling of Tussar silk directly from the cocoon.
Ghicha silk fabric although is rough, but has surprisingly smooth touch. Ghicha has properties identical to that of cotton and yet it possesses the lustrous silk sheen. Nowadays Ghicha silk is generally used more as a blended fabric, mostly with pure silk sarees or pure cotton sarees. Also, there are some Tussar or Cotton sarees that have pallu entirely made in Ghicha silk fabric.
Gichha silk is derived from the waste material of Tussar silk production. During the reeling process, some cocoons remain incomplete or damaged and are typically discarded. However, these are collected to produce Gichha silk. This recycling process makes Gichha sarees an environmentally friendly option. Tussar silk itself is known for its natural gold color and rich texture, and Gichha silk inherits these qualities while adding a more textured, rustic feel.
Globally, India is the second-largest producer of silk, with Tussar silk contributing significantly to this production. Bihar and Jharkhand are the primary states producing Tussar silk, contributing to over 60% of the country’s total output. This high production ensures a steady supply of Gichha silk for saree-making.
The clothes made of Ghicha silk have intricate weaves, available in a plethora of colours combined with distinct motifs and designs, makes for infinite possibilities of a saree.
Gichha saree is made from Gichha silk, a yarn spun from the leftover cocoons after reeling Tussar or Eri silk. Unlike regular silk, Gichha silk is coarser, which gives the saree a rustic charm. The fabric retains the natural sheen of silk while offering the softness of cotton, making it a versatile choice for various occasions.
What is the History and Origin of Ghicha Silk?
The exact origin of the Ghicha silk is not known but is believed that European traders started importing and exporting this silk around the 16th century and greatly appreciated the art of making sarees using this fabric. Ghicha silk is mainly produced in the East Indian states of Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, and Bihar. The expert weavers involved in the making of this saree are mainly from communities such as Muslims, Scheduled castes, and some local tribes. The making of Ghicha silk sarees is the major source of income for the families of local small villages. Both men, as well as women, are involved in the making of the Ghicha silk saree.
Gichha silk has a rich cultural heritage, deeply embedded in the history of regions like Jharkhand, Bihar, and West Bengal. The weaving of Gichha sarees has been a traditional craft for centuries, providing livelihood to many artisan communities. Historically, silk weaving in India dates back to at least 2450 BC, with the Indus Valley Civilization being one of the earliest regions to cultivate silk. The Gichha saree represents a continuation of this ancient tradition, with its roots in the production of Tussar silk, which was historically reserved for royalty and nobility.
What is a Ghicha Silk Saree?
Ghicha silk sarees are a style of saree made from the famous Ghicha silk that provides extreme comfort, elegance, and a glossy texture to the saree. These sarees are preferred by women as they can wear them for a long time, as the material of the saree is sturdy and durable. It can be worn throughout the year as the fabric is soft and smooth, almost identical to cotton.
Ghicha silk is mostly produced in the Bhagalpur in the Bihar district. It has been producing silk and sarees have been being made in this part of the country for decades. The local women of Bhagalpur are highly trained in the art of Ghicha silk weaving. They can weave up to 10 meters of silk cloth in about three days.
The dull golden colour of the Ghicha silk makes it an ideal choice for almost every traditional Indian occasion and event. They are adorned with unique and beautiful embroidery and tribal motifs inspired by nature that makes them even more gorgeous.
The texture of the Ghicha saree makes it so that it doesn’t require any special care or extra care, despite the fabric being very soft and delicate in nature. It can be washed easily at home with just some mild liquid fabric detergent and conditioner. Although, it is advisable that, the Ghicha is to be dry washed, at least for the first time in order to avoid the bleeding of colours. It is said that storing the Ghicha silk in soft muslin bags allows the fabric to breathe easily, which means it lets the air pass through, thus keeping it comfortable, especially during the summer seasons.
What is the Process of weaving Ghicha Silk?
The first step of weaving the Ghicha silk saree involves designing. The master craftsmen first select the drawings, which mainly consist of variations of weave and color.
The next step is the preparation of raw material.
The skilled workers use their bare thighs to draw out a single filament of silk from the cocoons of the silkworms. This silk is known as Ghicha silk.
Throwing
After the extraction of the silk from the silkworm and processing them, in order to remove the impurities, the next step involves the spools being transferred to skeins. After drying the skeins, these skeins are rolled onto bobbins to make them thicker, stronger, and multi-threaded yarn. There are about 10 skeins that are twisted together.
Dyeing
For the dyeing of Ghicha silk, mostly natural dyes are commonly used dyeing. While the process of dyeing is identical for all colours, mordants are used differently for specific colours. In general, the first step for all dyes is the extraction of the dyes by boiling them dyestuff in water. The solution of the dyes is then strained, and then the dye is put on all the wet yarn skeins. After soaking them with the dye for some time, the skeins are then put in a mordant solution to increase and speed up the effect of the dye. The last step involves washing the yarn with reetha powder. The wet skeins are then put in a dye bath for about20 minutes in a separate vessel.
The commonly used mordant used in the process of dyeing is Kasis stone, which is put in plain water and sieved. The dyed skeins are then put into this solution for approximately 5 minutes and after another 20 minutes, the skeins are washed in a reetha solution.
The first process of weaving includes the weaving of warp and weft. Now, before weaving the warp and weft, the yarn needs to be spun according to the required specifications. Then the silk yarn is attached to large spools, which are placed on a creel. From the creel, the yarn is wound onto the warp beam. This process is known as spooling.
In the weaving process on the loom, the warp beam is mounted at the back and the warp yarns are conveyed to a cylinder called the cloth roll, which is at the front of the loom. Supported on the loom frame between the two cylinders, the warp yarns are ready to be interlaced by the filling or weft yarns, to produce the woven fabric.
There are a few fundamental steps in the process of weaving such as:-
Shedding:
It is the operation that is performed with the aid of the harnesses, which are just rectangular frames to which many wires, or heddles, are attached. Each and every warp yarn that comes from the beam, must be passed through an opening in the heddle.
Picking:
As the heddles are raised with the help of the harness, which in turn raises the warp yarn, the filling yarn is then inserted through the shed by the shuttle that contains a bobbin of filling yarn.
This intercrossing of wefts in between the shed of the warp is known as Picking.
After all the process of weaving is completed, the fabric is taken off the loom, and it is washed with plain water and laid out in the sun to dry. After the fabric has dried, water is sprinkled all over the saree with a spray machine. This spraying should be done in such a way that the water is uniformly spread all over the surface of the saree. The fabric is then folded properly and beaten with a heavy hammer, known as kundi. This beating process helps make the weave permanent. The fabric is now ready for calendaring, which is basically a mechanically produced finish, that is achieved by pressing the fabric between a series of two or more rollers to smoothen it and that helps produce a wrinkle-free effect on the saree.
Characteristics of Gichha Saree
Texture and Appearance
Gichha sarees are known for their distinctive texture, which is a blend of the roughness of Gichha silk and the smoothness of cotton. The fabric’s natural slubs give it a rustic appearance, while the silk’s inherent sheen adds a touch of elegance. The sarees often feature earthy tones, such as beige, gold, and brown, which are enhanced by natural dyes. These colors are not just aesthetically pleasing but also have cultural significance, symbolizing purity and connection to nature.
The natural luster of Gichha silk is comparable to that of Tussar silk, which is often referred to as “wild silk” due to its natural, unpolished appearance. The unique texture of Gichha sarees makes them stand out from other silk sarees, appealing to those who appreciate both tradition and rustic elegance.
Durability and Comfort
Gichha sarees are not only beautiful but also practical. The fabric’s durability makes it suitable for regular wear, and its breathability ensures comfort, especially in warm climates. Unlike synthetic fabrics, Gichha silk is a natural fiber, making it hypoallergenic and suitable for sensitive skin.
Over time, Gichha sarees become softer with each wash, enhancing their comfort without compromising their durability. This quality makes them a valuable addition to any wardrobe, as they retain their beauty and strength even after years of use. The durability of these sarees is comparable to that of Tussar silk sarees, which are known for their longevity and ability to withstand wear and tear.
Variations and Designs
Color and Dyeing TechniquesGichha sarees are available in a wide range of colors, thanks to the use of natural dyes. These dyes are often made from plants, minerals, and other natural sources, resulting in rich, vibrant hues that are free from harmful chemicals. Common colors include shades of red, orange, yellow, and green, each carrying its own cultural significance. For instance, red symbolizes purity and is often worn during weddings, while yellow is associated with fertility and is worn during religious ceremonies.
The dyeing process for Gichha sarees is meticulous. The yarn is first soaked in a mordant solution, which helps the dye bond with the fiber. After dyeing, the yarn is washed and dried in the sun, a process that can take several days depending on the weather. This careful dyeing process ensures that the colors are vibrant and long-lasting, with minimal fading over time.
Embellishments and PatternsGichha sarees often feature intricate embellishments and patterns, making them unique and visually appealing. Traditional motifs, such as paisleys, peacocks, and tribal symbols, are commonly used. These patterns are usually hand-embroidered or block-printed, adding a layer of artisanal craftsmanship to each saree.
In some variations, the saree’s border and pallu are embellished with zari (metallic thread), adding a touch of luxury. This blend of Gichha silk’s rustic charm with the opulence of zari makes these sarees suitable for both casual and formal occasions. The combination of silk and cotton threads allows for detailed and intricate patterns that are both durable and visually stunning.
Economic and Social Impact
Artisan Communities
The production of Gichha sarees is a vital economic activity in rural India, particularly in states like Jharkhand, Bihar, and West Bengal. In these regions, silk weaving is not just a craft but a way of life, with entire communities relying on it for their livelihood. According to the Textile Ministry of India, the handloom sector employs over 4.3 million people, many of whom are involved in silk weaving. The Gichha saree industry provides employment to both men and women, helping to preserve traditional skills and promote economic stability in these areas.
In addition to providing economic benefits, the Gichha saree industry plays a crucial role in preserving cultural heritage. By continuing to weave these sarees, artisans help keep ancient techniques and designs alive, passing them down to future generations. The industry also contributes to the empowerment of women, who make up a significant portion of the workforce. In many cases, women work from home, allowing them to balance their domestic responsibilities with earning an income.
Market Demand and Global Recognition
In recent years, there has been a growing appreciation for handcrafted textiles, leading to an increase in demand for Gichha sarees. Not only are they popular in India, but they have also gained recognition in international markets. The global fashion industry’s shift towards sustainable and ethical fashion has further boosted the demand for Gichha sarees, as consumers seek products that are environmentally friendly and socially responsible.
India’s handloom exports, including sarees, have seen a steady increase over the past decade, with the United States, Europe, and Japan being major importers. The Gichha saree, with its blend of traditional craftsmanship and sustainable production methods, is particularly appealing to a global audience that values authenticity and eco-friendliness. The sarees are also popular among the Indian diaspora, who appreciate the connection to their cultural roots.
Styling and Modern Relevance
Versatility in Fashion
Gichha sarees have transcended traditional boundaries to become a versatile and modern fashion staple. Their unique blend of rustic charm and elegance makes them suitable for various occasions, from casual daywear to festive celebrations and even formal events. The texture and natural sheen of Gichha silk give the saree a distinct appearance that can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion.
For everyday wear, Gichha sarees can be paired with simple blouses and minimal jewelry to create an understated yet elegant look. Their breathable fabric makes them comfortable for long hours, especially in India’s hot and humid climate. On the other hand, for special occasions, Gichha sarees can be adorned with heavier accessories, such as statement necklaces, bangles, and embroidered blouses, to enhance their traditional appeal.
Fashion designers have recognized the potential of Gichha sarees in modern fashion. Many contemporary designers have begun to incorporate Gichha silk into their collections, creating innovative fusion outfits that blend traditional Indian styles with Western influences. For example, Gichha silk has been used in designing lehengas, saree gowns, and even tailored jackets and skirts. These fusion outfits appeal to younger generations who appreciate the heritage of traditional textiles but seek a more modern and versatile approach to fashion.
Celebrity Endorsements and Designer Collections
The resurgence of interest in Gichha sarees can be partly attributed to endorsements by celebrities and their inclusion in high-profile designer collections. Celebrities play a significant role in popularizing traditional attire among the masses, and Gichha sarees are no exception. Prominent Bollywood actresses such as Vidya Balan and Konkona Sen Sharma, known for their love of traditional sarees, have been seen wearing Gichha sarees at public events, award functions, and even in movies. Their endorsement of Gichha sarees has brought them into the limelight, inspiring fashion-conscious individuals to explore this traditional garment.
Designer collections have further elevated the status of Gichha sarees in the fashion industry. Renowned designers such as Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Ritu Kumar have incorporated Gichha silk into their bridal and festive collections, giving this humble fabric a luxurious makeover. For instance, Sabyasachi’s collections often feature Gichha silk sarees with intricate embroidery, rich color palettes, and traditional motifs, making them a favorite choice for weddings and other grand occasions.
Moreover, the popularity of Gichha sarees has extended beyond Indian borders, with international designers and fashion houses showing interest in this traditional fabric. The global fashion industry’s shift towards sustainable and ethical fashion has played a crucial role in this growing interest. As consumers become more conscious of the environmental impact of their clothing choices, Gichha sarees, with their eco-friendly production process and use of natural dyes, have gained recognition as a sustainable fashion option.
Care and Maintenance
Washing and Storage
Caring for Gichha sarees is essential to maintain their beauty and longevity. Given their delicate nature, it is recommended to dry clean Gichha sarees, especially for the first few washes, to preserve their colors and texture. If washing at home, using mild detergents and cold water is advisable. The sarees should be washed gently by hand to avoid damaging the silk fibers.
To prevent the saree from losing its natural sheen, it is essential to avoid direct exposure to sunlight while drying. Instead, drying in the shade will help maintain the fabric’s original color and texture. When storing Gichha sarees, it is best to fold them neatly and keep them in a soft, breathable fabric, such as a muslin cloth, to protect them from dust and moisture. Storing the saree in a cool, dry place will prevent it from developing any musty odors or mildew.
Long-term Durability
One of the most appealing characteristics of Gichha sarees is their ability to age gracefully. With proper care, these sarees can last for many years, becoming softer and more comfortable with each wash. The durability of Gichha silk is comparable to that of Tussar silk, known for its long-lasting qualities. As the saree ages, it takes on a more relaxed drape, enhancing its overall elegance and making it a cherished piece in any wardrobe.
Many Gichha saree owners pass them down through generations, as these sarees hold not only aesthetic value but also sentimental significance. The durability of the fabric, combined with its timeless appeal, ensures that a well-cared-for Gichha saree can become a family heirloom, treasured for its connection to Indian heritage and culture.
The Ghicha silk sarees are very comfortable, elegant, stylish, and ideal for any formal or informal events and during any season of the year. The fabric is soft and smooth and it has a shiny texture that really increases the appeal of the saree.
The Ghicha silk saree is a very popular saree and is available at all major saree centres throughout the nation and can also be bought from the comfort of our homes, as they are available online on all the popular e-commerce websites such as Amazon, Flipkart, Myntra, Meesho, Mirraw, PeachMode in a wide variety of blended fabrics and also in many designs and colours.
The price of a genuine and authentic Ghicha saree ranges from INR 3000 to INR 15000 and more depending on the quality of the fabric used, the patterns and motifs, and the required customized designs.