Kantha sarees, with their intricate stitching and rich heritage, offer a unique blend of tradition and innovation. Originating from West Bengal, Odisha, and Tripura, this ancient embroidery art showcases the ingenuity of rural Indian women. Initially crafted from necessity, Kantha has transformed into a global symbol of sustainable fashion and cultural expression, revered for its storytelling and detailed motifs.
Origins and Evolution
Kantha embroidery, known for its storied past and intricate stitching, traces its roots back to ancient India, specifically pre-Vedic times, around 1500 BCE. This age-old tradition predominantly thrived in Bengal, currently encompassing West Bengal in India and Bangladesh. The term “Kantha” finds its origin in the Sanskrit word for “rags,” reflecting the essence of this craft, which involves repurposing old sarees and dhotis into new, vibrant textiles.
Kantha’s earliest documented reference appears in the 500-year-old text “Sri Sri Chaitanya Charitamrita” by Krishnadas Kaviraj, which tells of a Kantha sent by the mother of the saint Chaitanya Mahaprabhu. This piece, said to be on display in the Gambhira of Chaitanya Dev in Puri, India, exemplifies the personal and historical significance of this craft. Traditionally, Kantha embroidery was a domestic activity, undertaken by rural women during their limited leisure time. These artisans, regardless of their social status, would craft Kanthas as an artistic outlet, preserving memories and cultural narratives through their stitches
The Downfall and Revival Of Kantha
This art form started disappearing during the early 19th century and wasn’t revived until the 1940s when the daughter in law of the Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore took to reviving this craft.
Yet again, there was a disturbance in the rival process of this craft due to the then political situations. During the Partition of India in 1947 and the conflict between India and then Eastern Pakistan (now Bangladesh), the craft saw a downfall. Finally, after the Bangladesh Liberation War (1971), Kantha had a re-birth as a much desired and highly valued art and craft form.
Craftsmanship
At the heart of Kantha is its distinctive running stitch, which artisans use to create a diverse array of patterns. The simplicity of the stitch belies the complexity of the designs, which range from basic geometric shapes to intricate scenes of village life and mythological tales. Popular motifs include the lotus, symbolizing purity; the tree of life, representing growth and continuity; and animals like the peacock and elephant, signifying beauty and strength. The term “Nakshi Kantha” is used to describe particularly artistic and geometric patterns, demonstrating the high level of skill and creativity involved in the craft.
Motifs, Stitches and Inspirations for Kantha Sarees
The largest source of inspiration behind this craft is the day to day life of the people living in Bengal. The motifs, those we see designed on clothes or bedspreads, like birds, animals, folk scenes, fishes and village scenes, are all inspired by the daily lives of common people.
In the modern-day, when we refer to Kantha, we specifically mean the kind of stitch that is used. Previously, the most basic Kantha stitch used to be the simple, straight running stitch. As time passed by the patterns developed to be more elaborate. These embroidery patterns came to be known as “Nakshi Kantha”. Naksha, in Bengali, refers to artistic patterns, thus the word Nakshi. Nakshi Kantha incorporates elaborate motifs influenced by religion, culture and the lives of the craftswomen.
The plain piece of cloth is like a free canvas where the imagination of the craftswomen unfolds. The Nakshi Kantha designs speak of folklores, beliefs and practices, religious ideas and themes. They depict characters from mythologies and epics, scenes from their personal lives, the dreams and hopes of the artisans and the day to day scenes of the village. The Nakshi Kantha might not have any boundaries when it comes to designs, but a fine piece might have a lotus as a focal point, with stylised birds, fish, flowers, plants and other scenes around this.
The Making process of Kantha Sarees
Kantha was a result of external factors, just like any other art form. Some of these factors were material availability, daily needs, climate, economic and geographic factors. Traditionally, the textile production industry was one of the most laborious industries, and therefore, textiles were highly valued and used to their maximum capacity. Thus, recycling the clothes that were used well and couldn’t be worn anymore was a common step. Recycling was mostly home-based work and usually fell to the household women to prepare, cut and stitch the rags, thus continuing the lifecycle of these clothes. They would transform these rags into more useful products like quilts, covers for furniture and other things, etc.
- Quilts were made using the Kantha technique for many different purposes. The rural women would use old sarees and dhotis that had turned incredibly soft from wearing a lot of these products.
- They started by layering 3-4 pieces of old sarees or dhotis for the same. They layered the lighter coloured fabrics on the outside so that the stitches and the designs would be visible.
- The coloured threads were extracted from the border of one of the old sarees. These coloured threads were used to stitch the layers together by embroidering patterns on them.
- The designs were traced on the fabric and then embroidered on by using the running stitch. Sometimes, the entire cloth was covered with running stitches to provide strength to it.
Types of Kantha
Kantha’s versatility is evident in its wide range of applications. While sarees are the most popular form, the embroidery also adorns quilts, bedspreads, cushion covers, and even accessories like scarves and bags. Lep Kantha are heavy quilts designed for warmth, whereas Sujani Kantha is used for ceremonial purposes, often featuring auspicious symbols and motifs. Baiton Kantha, used to wrap books and important documents, highlights the cultural and spiritual significance of the craft in preserving knowledge and tradition.
There are namely seven different types of Kantha stitches.
1) Lep Kantha: It is mostly used to refer to the straight running stitch and the earliest and original form of Kantha. It is used to make padded quilts that are warm.
2) Sujani Kantha: This is found only in the Rajshahi area of Bangladesh. But it is also practised in the Indian state of Bihar. One of the popular motifs is an undulating vine and floral pattern. It is used on bed covers made for ceremonial occasions.
3) Baiton Kantha: It is used to make covers. These covers could wrap books and other precious objects.
4) Oaar Kantha: It is used on pillow covers.
5) Archilata Kantha: It is used to make covers for mirrors and usually comes with colourful motifs and borders.
6) Durjani Kantha: When making a wallet, small pieces have this stitch that is used to make the inside.
7) Rumal Kantha: It is used to make covers for plates. They come with a lotus motif in the centre.
A variety of Kantha called the cross stitch or the Carpet Kantha was also introduced during British rule in India.
Geographical Spread and Cultural Integration
Kantha’s influence has spread far beyond its regional origins, with adaptations appearing across India and even globally. In Rajasthan, the “Gudari Kantha” integrates local fabric traditions with the Kantha technique, creating a fusion of styles that enriches the craft. This cultural exchange has not only diversified Kantha’s aesthetic but also expanded its market reach, appealing to a broader audience interested in both traditional and contemporary designs.
Socio-Economic Impact
Kantha embroidery provides a vital source of income for thousands of women in rural Bengal and neighboring regions. These artisans, often working from home while managing household responsibilities, earn a modest income from their craft. Despite the increasing market value of Kantha products, the artisans themselves frequently face challenges in receiving fair compensation for their intricate work. Efforts by NGOs and government initiatives aim to address these issues by promoting fair trade practices, providing training and resources, and facilitating better market access for the artisans. These efforts help empower women, foster economic development, and preserve a vital cultural heritage.
Contemporary Relevance
Kantha has gained significant recognition in the fashion industry, with prominent designers like Tarun Tahiliani and Sabyasachi Mukherjee incorporating it into their collections. These designers have showcased Kantha at major fashion events, bringing global attention to the craft and highlighting its potential in luxury and couture markets. International brands have also featured Kantha embroidery, underscoring its appeal to a diverse clientele. This integration of traditional art with modern fashion has not only enhanced Kantha’s global presence but also inspired new interpretations and innovations in design.
Current Scenario of Kantha Sarees
- Kantha has been the prime choice for ages for any fashion enthusiast who wants to stand out when it comes to style and be beyond the ordinary.
- Traditionally, the motifs were inspired by the local lives and flora and fauna. But as modern-day designers take to experimenting with the designs and motifs, one can see the depiction of Egyptian murals, cave paintings and even pop art using this craft of fine stitchwork.
- The demand for this craft is not just limited to India. Designers from UK and Japan have also reached out to the artisans and used their embroideries in their designs.
Challenges and Opportunities
The commercialization of Kantha presents both opportunities and challenges. On one hand, it has brought financial benefits to the artisans and increased the craft’s visibility. On the other hand, it risks diluting the traditional essence of the craft as demand for mass-produced items grows. Initiatives like the National Rural Entrepreneurship and Training Program (NRETP) aim to balance innovation with the preservation of cultural heritage. By supporting artisans and promoting sustainable practices, these efforts help ensure that Kantha remains a vibrant and evolving art form.
Kantha sarees embody the enduring beauty and resilience of Indian textile traditions. As symbols of cultural heritage, they continue to inspire and captivate, bridging the gap between the past and present. The future of Kantha lies in its ability to adapt and innovate while staying true to its roots, ensuring its legacy for generations to come. Through continued support and appreciation, Kantha will remain a cherished and dynamic part of India’s artistic heritage.