Mangalagiri sarees are produced in the namesake town, Mangalagiri, of Guntur district in Andhra Pradesh. The town is about 12kms from Vijaywada and also is a pilgrimage destination. The craft is said to be practised by the weavers for over 500 years. Mangalagiri sarees are one of the traditional and richest weaves of the town and is found in cotton and silk as well. One of the many reasons why this craft is so sought after is the fineness of the weave. Another reason for its popularity is the designs that are woven into it as they are reminiscent of the state’s history, especially the rule of Nawab.
History: The Downfall and The Revival of Mangalagiri
Way before the sarees got popularised, Mangalagiri was famous for its pilgrimage importance. The temple of Lord Panakala Narasimha Swamy is situated in the centre of the town and is believed to have been here since the Satya Yuga. It is said that under the present temple lies the former Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy temple, the one in which the main idol was installed by Yudhistira.
In around 1593, during the rule of Qutub Shahi, heavy taxes were levied on the handloom sarees of this region. As a result of this, the weavers started to move out of this town and started settling in other handloom centres of the state. This affected the weaving activities of this town. Later, the subsequent rulers of this region opted for more sympathetic practices and reduced the taxes.
The reference of all these events can be found inscribed on a pillar called the Shasana Sthambam in the Main Bazaar street of Mangalagiri Township. It was installed to represent the sorrows that the weavers went through and showing a more positive attitude towards them.
The Lord Panakala Narasimha Swamy temple that we see today, was built by Raja Vasireddi Venkatadri Naidu between the years 1807-1809. As per the tradition in ancient times, the pilgrims needed to buy a saree from the local weavers after offering obeisance to the lord. It was a way of giving the weavers a livelihood and thus increasing the popularity of these sarees.
The Art and the Procedure of Mangalagiri
Materials used:
Usually, the fine Mangalagiri cotton is used, but nowadays, silk is also used to make the Mangalagiri saree. Synthetic or natural dyes and silver or golden zari are also used to produce this saree.
Preparation of the Raw materials
- Purification of Cotton: The cotton yarns are brought from the mills. They are in the Hank form, are creamier in colour and contain a lot of impurities (oil, wax, cotton seeds, etc.) making the yarn unsuitable for the dyeing process.
Therefore the yarns are boiled in hot water with soap and caustic soda to remove the impurities for about 3-4 hours. After boiling, the yarns are left overnight in the same solution.
The next morning, the yarns are washed thoroughly and the excess water is removed, making them suitable for the dyeing process.
- Dyeing: This is an important step in the production of the Mangalagiri sarees.
For white coloured saree, the yarns are bleached either in bleaching powder or in bleaching solution.
For coloured saree, the yarns are soaked in dyes. There are usually two types of chemical dyes used in the handloom industries – naphthol and vat dyes. Vat dyes are used in about 90% of the Mangalagiri textiles.
Pre-loom Processes
- Preparing the Hank yarns for warp and weft: The hank yarns are transferred through a charkha on a bobbin to form the warp. The yarn is winded up on a pirn to make the weft.
Then, the warp is rolled out into a warp machine from several bobbins with bamboo sticks by a rotating process. The warp machine is a big circular contraption. The hank yarns are now in the form of a warp.
- Street sizing: Now, the warp is transferred on bamboo sticks. They are extended to their full length and sprayed with rice congee. This is done to strengthen the fibres and make them suitable for weaving. This process is done for about 45 minutes. The yarns are then left to dry depending on the time of the day and weather conditions.
What is the Weaving process of Mangalagiri?
After all the above processes, the warp is now ready for weaving. The warp is mounted on a beam and the pirn which has the weft is placed inside a shuttle. The shuttle is placed perpendicular to the warp beam. Every time the lever is pulled, the weft moves across the warp and adds to a weave.
However, this was how the weaving of the warp and weft was done traditionally. Nowadays, the jacquard loom is used for weaving. The cards with punched holes are inserted and placed properly to achieve the required designs on the cloth.
One warp can make about four sarees-
1warp = 12 hanks
1 weft = 10 hanks
One significant thing to be noticed about Mangalagiri sarees is that they are woven only on pit looms.
The Border
The zari is wound up in small bobbins and used to create the borders by hand. Since there are no woven designs on the body of the Mangalagiri sarees, the zari is used only for the border. These sarees are known for the Nizam borders, which are simple geometrical designs inspired by tribal designs.
The Cutting and Folding
The cloth is cut according to the size requirements of the product it would be converted into. After cutting they are folded and sent for inspection.
Inspection of the fabric
After cutting and folding, the fabric is sent to the master weaver. They inspect the fabric for any flaws and rectification that might be needed.
Mangalagiri Silk Sarees
Nowadays, Mangalagiri sarees are also available in silk. They are used for special occasions such as religious festivals and weddings, among others. These are also known as Mangalagiri Pattu sarees. The weaves of the silk variety are just as fine and rich as the Mangalagiri cotton sarees. It is usually available in luscious colours such as red, pink, mustard and green.
What is the Uniqueness of Mangalagiri?
- Mangalagiri sarees are known for their pure durable cotton material
- There are no woven designs on the body of the fabric.
- The Nizam border, which appears near the selvedge of the saree, is peculiar only to the Mangalagiri region.
- The Mangalagiri material is woven only on a pit loom.
- These are produced only in the Mangalagiri region of Andhra Pradesh.
- There are no gaps on the weave in the edge of the material. It is again a peculiar characteristic of this kind of fabric.
How to Maintain Mangalagiri?
- For the first few times when cleaning is required, opt for dry cleaning.
- Later on, one can clean the saree at home. They need to soak the saree for around ten to fifteen minutes in cold water and detergent solution. Do not soak for too long. Use a mild detergent. There can be a possibility that the colour might slightly bleed, especially the darker shades.
- Do not bleach the fabric.
- Avoid squeezing or wringing the fabric.
- Avoid brushing or lashing the cotton saree as this could lead to tearing of the zari or the fabric.
- Starch can be used on these sarees if one prefers stiffness.
- To prevent the colour from fading, dry the fabric in a shaded area.
- When ironing the fabric, use a spray bottle to dampen the fabric and iron on the reverse side. Keep the heat on medium-low.
- Make sure that the fabric is completely dry before storing it to avoid fungus.
- Use wooden hangers to hang these sarees.
What is the Current Scenario of Mangalagiri?
- Mangalagiri is a very popular handloom textile. It has a huge global demand due to its simplicity, durability, colour and wearability.
- About 50% of this town’s population is dependent on this cottage industry for their livelihood.
- Mangalagiri sarees have been famous since ancient times. But, a revolution in the market in around 1985 gave birth to the demand for dress materials made out of the Managalagiri fabric.
- The new generation also uses kurtas, dupattas and stoles made out of Mangalagiri fabric. These fabrics are also transformed into beautiful dresses. Some designers use this fabric to make shirts for men.
- Apart from this, jhola bags are also made out of the Mangalagiri fabric and are very popular.
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