Kashmiri sarees, also known as Pashmina sarees is an excellent type of ‘cashmere’ woolen fabric, that is manufactured from the wool obtained from four different types of mountain goats. The word ‘Peshmanin’ is derived from the Persian word ‘Pashmineh’ which means wool in Persian. The Pashmina fabric is generally produced in Kashmir. The fabric is extremely comfortable and smooth. The authentic Pashmina fabric is so soft and smooth that it can be easily passed through a finger-ring. The Kashmiri sarees are worn generally during the winter season as the fabric is warm and weighs very less which makes it very comfortable to wear and easy to carry.
The goats from which the Pashmina wool is obtained, are also known as Pashmina goats. The goats have very soft hair, which is only handwoven in order to make the fabric. A blend of pashmina wool combined with fine silk forms the pashmina silk. The authentic pashmina sarees contain detailed Kashmiri embroidery known as Kashida.
There are many different kinds of fabrics that are used for making sarees in Kashmir. The most common ones are pashmina sarees, Kashmiri silk sarees, crepe sarees and georgette saree.
What is the History and Origin of Kashmiri/ Pashmina Saree?
The origin of the Kashmiri sarees can be traced back to almost two hundred years ago. The weaving of the shawl remained as one of the most important activities of Kashmir till the late 19th century. The Nawabs of Oudh, all the Rajput princes, and the royal families of Hyderabad wore Jamas and Angarkhas of intricate designs. Even the great Mughal emperor, Akbar was made a pair of shawls that was stitched back to back and it came to be later known as Dhoshala. In the late 18th century the wife of Napoleon 1 of France, empress Josephine, and the English royalty were encouraging and appreciating their love and desire for the Kashmir shawls. The queen of England at that time, Queen Victoria wore, diagonally folded, the square-shaped shawls she received as an annual tribute from the state of Kashmir. Even till date, Pashmina shawls is one of the most loved possession in the wardrobe for anyone living a fashionable life.
Even after about two hundred years of its rich and popular history, the Kashmiri saree is still an important part of a stylish wardrobe, that speaks a lot about the durability and the widespread appeal of the Kashmiri sarees.
What is a Kashmiri/ Pashmina Saree?
Kashmiri sarees are an authentic style of saree that are hand-made in the lands of Kashmir. A Kashmiri saree always contains its signature embroidery. To put it precisely, every Kashmiri saree is basically an embroidery saree. Kashmiri sarees are adorned with gorgeous, unique embroidery that is very traditional to Kashmir such as Aari work and Tilla embroidery. The Kashmiri sarees mostly contain floral designs.
A Kashmiri saree is mostly available in a plethora of colours ranging from light to dark colours. Some of the most commonly used colours include white, beige, black, yellow, black and blue.
Kashmiri or Pashmina sarees are generally woven as plain sarees but they can even be woven to look identical to traditional sarees containing a border and a pallu.
What are the different types of Kashmiri/ Pashmina Sarees?
Plain style: The plain style Kashmiri sarees are vibrant colour sarees without having any motifs, embroidery, design, or printing. They have a certain appeal and their simplicity is the most elegant part. These sarees are ideal for office or work wear. The plain Kashmiri sarees can be found in a large variety of colours and shades starting from natural beige to ivory, white, red, blue, green, yellow, pink, and many other colours and shades are available.
Kani Weave: The Kani weave is a unique weaving style that is particular to the valley of Kashmir and is used to weave complex and intricate patterns in a variety of shades on the fabric. Kani weaving is a highly meticulous and complex job. It is highly detail-oriented and takes a lot of time, as each and every saree can take up to months to weave. Kani pashmina sarees are excellent pieces of fabric and fit for heirlooms to be passed on from generation to generation. These majestic sarees are an ideal choice for any formal occasion, be it power dinners or conferences or fun gala nights, these sarees will fit in everywhere.
Kashida: Kashida is a unique form of embroidery that is practised only in Kashmir. Only about a couple of stitches are used to create beautiful complex patterns on the saree. A notable feature of Kashida work is that it either can be done only on the border and pallu, or it can be all over the body of the saree. A popular style is a border, pallu with little motifs drawn all over the body of the saree. Kashida work sarees are exquisite examples of art and craft. These sarees are suitable for all kinds of occasions depending upon the work and the colours used for embroidery. They are perfect for weddings and other traditional events.
Sozni: Sozni is a very unique style of embroidery from Kashmir where multiple patterns are created using a satin stitch that can be worn from both sides of the saree. The unique feature is that both sides may or may not have different colours. Sozni was very prevalent in shawls but now, Sozni has made its way into the design of Kashmiri sarees too. A saree with full embroidery all over the saree in Sozni style is pretty expensive, but there are some affordable and economical pieces of Sozni out there.
Printed: Kashmiri sarees and Pashmina Silk sarees are also available in traditional prints. There are various variants such as prints all over the body of the saree, border pallu, and booti, floral borders and pallu, geometric border and pallu, etc. These printed sarees are very graceful and comfortable as any silk or cotton saree that is out there and they can be worn for both casual as well as workwear.
Woven Double/Multicoloured: Kashmiri sarees are also found in double or multi-coloured woven patterns with designs of stripes, checks, or just matching border and pallu over a plain centre. These multi-coloured sarees are available in both 100% pashmina as well as pashmina silk.
What is the material and weaving of Kashmiri/ Pashmina Sarees?
The process of combing the yarn is used to separate the hard fibres from the soft fibres. Then on a spinning wheel, which is locally known as Charkha, it is carefully spun using hand. The wool merchant then separates the yarn for use as warp and weft. For a colourful saree, the Rangur or the dyer is used at this stage. After the process of dyeing is completed, the hanks of wool are made into bobbins and then they are made ready for warping.
The price of a Kashmiri/ Pashmina Saree ranges from INR 1500 to INR 15000 and more depending on the quality of the fabric used, the motifs and patterns, and the required customized design.
O2wing to the various styles of embroidery and designs and comfort of the Kashmiri saree, they are easily available throughout the nation in all the major saree centres as well as in all the popular e-commerce websites such as Amazon, Flipkart, Myntra, PeachMode, etc.
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